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May 26, 2012, 09:45:02 am
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Author Topic: What will a frozen waste gate and wrong tune on the motor do?  (Read 1197 times)
Ohio Tom (DdK)
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« on: July 05, 2011, 10:07:39 pm »

See if this will post.
This is what eventually happend 10 passes later.
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Ohio Tom Simpson. Home of the Killa' Bee.
Ohio Tom (DdK)
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« Reply #1 on: July 05, 2011, 10:10:35 pm »

The first 2 studs fell out, the 2nd pair were cracked and bulging, the 3rd pair has hairline cracks around the spigots.
My fault really, I can blame the wastegate thou can't I?

A few more revloutions, and I'm sure I would have thrown the head and jugs right off.
Don't even wanna think about that one...
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Ohio Tom Simpson. Home of the Killa' Bee.
Ohio Tom (DdK)
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« Reply #2 on: July 05, 2011, 10:11:06 pm »

I think I can JB weld it?
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Ohio Tom Simpson. Home of the Killa' Bee.
NoBars
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« Reply #3 on: July 06, 2011, 09:48:18 am »

looks to me like you got lucky...
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Anthony Consorte
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« Reply #4 on: July 06, 2011, 10:00:27 am »

 
I think I can JB weld it?

You have enough surface area...
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Thanks Rocky Jennings, DRD, and Pauter -Stripped66
Marty
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« Reply #5 on: July 07, 2011, 11:06:44 am »

If your studs were long enough to go all the way into the case (like they should), it might have lived long enough for you to fix the problem before she let go.
It was detonating severely.
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Marty

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jersey joe
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« Reply #6 on: July 07, 2011, 11:14:35 pm »

Piston to cylinder wall clearance looks tight. Lots of scuffing on that piston skirt Smiley
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PILL IT TO KILL IT !!
IN RANGE inc.
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« Reply #7 on: July 07, 2011, 11:20:19 pm »

If your studs were long enough to go all the way into the case (like they should), it might have lived long enough for you to fix the problem before she let go.
It was detonating severely.

Marty hit the nail on the head!!
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OH, well?
vwracer
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« Reply #8 on: July 08, 2011, 11:26:13 am »

Looks like you got really lucky Tom.  That thing had some nasty detonation going on.
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Ohio Tom (DdK)
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« Reply #9 on: July 08, 2011, 06:16:28 pm »

Well guys you can't really see from the photos exactly how far the threads are in the case. They are a good 3/4" depth. That "should" have been enough for most standards.
Marty, what do you recommend as "deep enough"?

And, my personal belief is that if If they were solid steel inserts (like I thought they were), it would have loaded the case better as well.

Like I said, I screwed up good. I'm lucky it wasn't worse. etc...
I'm paying for it.. I think that's enough salt to throw in the wound.
The raised deck case I'm buying will help and I'm going to set the studs as deep as I can get them.

The real issue was detonation anyways. That will be fixed as well.

Also, I am going to back down the boost anyways (for now).
I am going to get a "real" cage in the car before I turn up the wick again.
Gotta save up a bunch more money for that one...
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Ohio Tom Simpson. Home of the Killa' Bee.
so67vw
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« Reply #10 on: July 08, 2011, 11:52:58 pm »

I was taught in the machine shop that a stud should be as deep as the nut that you use is wide.... The problem is the material the stud is in is not as strong as the stud...'At that point you would try to get as much surface area thread as you can.... The big question is "how much is enough"Huh That's too bad man.... I'm not looking forward to something like that happening....
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Marty
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« Reply #11 on: July 09, 2011, 11:51:27 am »

Well guys you can't really see from the photos exactly how far the threads are in the case. They are a good 3/4" depth. That "should" have been enough for most standards.
Marty, what do you recommend as "deep enough"?
All of the way.
I dont like to see any threads above the case deck. Sometimes this requires grinding the studs on the inside of the case once they are all of the way in for crank or rod clearance, but thats ok.

The way you have them, the head stud itself is actually compromised as well as the case.

It just so happens that area on those cases is the weakest spot aleady and your stud support was only 1/2 of the available "weak" area.
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Marty

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orangepeel
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« Reply #12 on: July 11, 2011, 02:48:12 am »

The Aluminum cases have cheap "Time-Sert" Inserts. If you ever have a cylinder head stud that had to be removed and it pulled the case insert with it, when you double nut the insert to remove it from the stud somtimes it cracks in half . That is what it looks like happened here. Not saying you didnt have other issues though. Detonation is a killer!
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madoski
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« Reply #13 on: July 20, 2011, 04:22:46 pm »

It just so happens that area on those cases is the weakest spot aleady and your stud support was only 1/2 of the available "weak" area.

Why not machine a steel backing plate (thin collar) for the inside of the case to thread the head studs into and spread out the bearing stress?  Clearance issues?  What about a counterbore into the case to get clearance back?  Easier to just add additional studs?  Why not do both?
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