|
HotrodVW
|
|
« on: December 23, 2006, 03:11:58 am » |
|
I'm re-doing my entire brake system, and know I'm going to want a line lock down the road. I may as well plan for it now! Any preferences, things to look out for, brands, reatilers with the best deals, etc??
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Marty
|
|
« Reply #1 on: December 23, 2006, 03:14:17 am » |
|
Good old Hurst Roll control is very dependable and simple to mount. Summit has the best prices usually.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Marty
staggsracing.com m-specmotorsports.com
|
|
|
|
HotrodVW
|
|
« Reply #2 on: December 23, 2006, 03:16:25 am » |
|
I noticed that so far. For some reason, I was thinking it was about $50. Man, I was soo wrong!!! Ouch! Buy once cry once, eh? It's going to look clutterd under my gas tank with a proportioning valve, residual valve, a line lock and an elec fuel pump. Yikes! 
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Marty
|
|
« Reply #3 on: December 23, 2006, 03:20:44 am » |
|
Yeah there are cheaper ones but they are kind of cheesy, more difficult to mount and plumb.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Marty
staggsracing.com m-specmotorsports.com
|
|
|
|
Jason Young
|
|
« Reply #4 on: December 23, 2006, 04:06:34 am » |
|
correct me if im wrong here but isnt the brake pedal pushrod used to correct the freeplay of the pedal rather then a residual valve?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
raceyoung.com welding-works.com geneberg.com
|
|
|
|
HotrodVW
|
|
« Reply #5 on: December 23, 2006, 04:09:06 am » |
|
A residual valve has nothing to do with that. The residual valve is basically a light weight check valve. It keeps the brake fluid from essentially draining back to the master cyl away from the rear brakes. It keeps you from having to pump the brakes to achieve a firm pedal. The push rod it just an actuator via the brake pedal. Make sense? 
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Jason Young
|
|
« Reply #6 on: December 23, 2006, 04:17:56 am » |
|
o ok, damn so i need to get me one of those. i usually have to do a double pump to get a full firm pedal.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
raceyoung.com welding-works.com geneberg.com
|
|
|
|
mmccarthy
|
|
« Reply #7 on: December 23, 2006, 07:21:33 am » |
|
I agree with Marty,Hurst are the best. Mike
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
PRO OUTLAW SEVWA
|
|
|
bill danner
Junior

Offline
Posts: 174
|
|
« Reply #8 on: December 23, 2006, 09:16:07 am » |
|
bought one from Biondo Racing back in 2001 ...still working ! not that expensive
bill
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
axm48ida
|
|
« Reply #9 on: December 23, 2006, 11:12:56 am » |
|
The purpose of the aftermarket residual valve is when you have aftermarket disc brakes, the rotor run out and in combination with the caliper pistons retracking back into the caliper increases the air gap between the rotor surface and the brake pads....That space then must be filled when you apply the brakes. so the first push of the brake pedal will allow that air gap to be filled and your next push or pump of the pedal your pads are applying pressure to the r otor to stop. The residual valve in a 2 pound version would keep enough line pressure to close that air gap. This is primarly for use with aftermarket master cly. There are also 5 and 10 versions, but you shouldn't need that much. Too much residual pressure may cause the brakes to drag and get hot, which does not help your situation. I recall most stock m/c do have a built in residual valve.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
56,63,67 sedan, turbo s NB
|
|
|
|
HotrodVW
|
|
« Reply #10 on: December 23, 2006, 11:54:49 am » |
|
The 10lb version is usually used for drum applications. I believe my stock OEM '67 m/c does have residual valves installed front and rear. I however, am running the CB wide 5 kit fornt and rear, with a bus master, proportioning valve, and line lock.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
infinities
|
|
« Reply #11 on: December 23, 2006, 12:12:41 pm » |
|
I use a Hurst line-loc I got off of ebay.. its good so far, but it needs the metric to SAE adaptors to fit VW brake line fittings.. of course if you "roll your own" lines with the correct size SAE fittings, no adapters will be needed. 
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
HotrodVW
|
|
« Reply #12 on: December 23, 2006, 12:14:24 pm » |
|
I "roll my own" man...... 
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
t-3racer
|
|
« Reply #13 on: December 23, 2006, 01:26:47 pm » |
|
The line lock from Biondo releases quicker than the Hurst. It is a straight through design, and best of all only 39.95 
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
mmccarthy
|
|
« Reply #14 on: December 23, 2006, 02:34:47 pm » |
|
If you only use it on the brakes,probably won't make ant differance on brand,I also use mine on clutch W/delay box,there I can tell the differance on speed by how much delay I have to add or subtract,will stick with HURST, Mike
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
PRO OUTLAW SEVWA
|
|
|
|
Jason Young
|
|
« Reply #15 on: December 23, 2006, 04:44:30 pm » |
|
infities, i like your rotary pump with AN fittings, i used to use the CB rotary pump and it had no way to use AN fittings. major PITA
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
raceyoung.com welding-works.com geneberg.com
|
|
|
|
HotrodVW
|
|
« Reply #16 on: December 23, 2006, 05:14:59 pm » |
|
Everything I am doing is using AN fittings. All of the tubing is SS, so to have a piece of hose with a clamp is going to look Lame.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
HotrodVW
|
|
« Reply #17 on: December 27, 2006, 12:47:11 am » |
|
Ok.......back on task.  Anyone ever tried to use a park-lock (don't laugh at me dammit) in place of the line lock? I can route the lines into the car, but it's more of a PITA. I didn't think so. Hmmm.....
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Dean N
|
|
« Reply #18 on: December 27, 2006, 01:31:21 am » |
|
i use the biondo LL and have had no problems with it yet. i have it hooked up as per the instructions on the txpra website.
hotrodvw, i had a buddy that did that about 20 years ago in his car. i dont ever recall if he used it during a race. you have to pull up on that button so that probably wouldnt be as quick as letting off the clutch. besides, after pulling that sucker up your probably shifting into second late.. lol
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
HotrodVW
|
|
« Reply #19 on: December 27, 2006, 02:35:16 am » |
|
Yeah.........the more I think about it, the line lock is definitely the route to go, and the correct way to go about it. Thanks for beating me back into shape. 
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
louisB
|
|
« Reply #20 on: December 27, 2006, 10:17:07 am » |
|
Are there any pros or cons to useing a stageing brake vs a line lock if you have front brakes? Or is it just personal preference?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
HotrodVW
|
|
« Reply #21 on: December 27, 2006, 11:00:33 am » |
|
From what I understand, a staging brake is basically the same as a turning brake out of a sand rail. It's just a lever operated master cylinder. A line lock is an electric solonoid, actuated via a small switch, and sometimes with an indicator light. The line lock is a much better way to go IMO. It is however mas dinero. 
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
the burnout king
|
|
« Reply #22 on: December 27, 2006, 11:07:54 am » |
|
Staging brake is for the rear brakes.... Line Loc is for the front.
Go with the hurst, Its the best and I have never had an issue with it, even when using it for 7 min at a time.... lol
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
louisB
|
|
« Reply #23 on: December 27, 2006, 11:18:42 am » |
|
Staging brake is for the rear brakes.... Line Loc is for the front.
Go with the hurst, Its the best and I have never had an issue with it, even when using it for 7 min at a time.... lol
Thanks, that clears that up. I plan to run front disks so line lock it is.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|