Turbo timing

[fifty-five]

I've got a question about setting the timing for my engine. I'm pretty new to turbo vws well this is my first so I've got a lot to learn. I've got a 2276 with a AJ Sims under the deck kit on it. I'm trying to figure out how I should set the timing. I've got a mallory hyfire6 box, mallory e-coil, and mallory distributor, mallory 2 bar map sensor. Now I have the timing set at 8 degrees at idle total advance is 28 degrees and I have the box pulling 1.2 degrees per pound of boost. does this sound right? Or should I have the distributor locked out?

[Ohio Tom (DdK)]

Ok I can help you on this as I have setup many Mallory Hyfire boxes for turbo use.

My recommendation is to lock out the distributor and set it at 32deg.
This will work great for idle and cruising around.
setup the MAP sensor for 0.6deg/psi retard. This means that 15psi will result in a 9deg retard. If you run more boost, then go to 0.4 or 0.5deg/psi.
set it up so that under full boost (whatever you have it set to), you get no more than 8-9deg retarding (i.e. 24deg under boost). Do the math and dial it in the box accordingly.
Any more retard will result in melted valves and red hot headers. (and detonation). I learned that one the hard way.
Finally, setup the "start retard" function to 10deg for starting purposes.
This setup works great. 

Trying to mix the boost retard function with the natural advance built into the distributor will get you in trouble fast. Keep it simple.

If all this is too complicated, then just lock your distributor out and set it at 24deg and use no boost retard at all. It will give up a little "snap" down low, but you'll never have to worry about timing again. Even more simple...
This is how my race motor is setup.

[VdanielW]

I too have a 2276 with an AJ Sims turbo kit & the big factors for me is what fuel am I running (pump or race), what static compression, & how much boost.  My current set up for pump gas is: locked at 30deg's, 1.2deg of retard for every pound of boost.  Race fuel: locked at 30deg's, 0.1deg of retard for every pound of boost. My static compression is 8.2:1 & boost level is 12psi.  Back when I had my 1915 I could run 15psi of boost on pump gas with 1.0deg of retard per pound of boost.

[fifty-five]

 My compression is 8.8:1, I usually run 93 octane, but put some 110 in it for drag night and it loved it. I usually run about 10 lbs boost.

[VdanielW]

With 110 leaded (that's what I run) & 8.2:1 compression, I have no problem with running 12psi and the lowest setting on my mallory 685 box.  I tried setting my compression at 8.6:1 about 2 yrs ago, but on pump gas it ran quite abit hotter than I liked on the street.  I put it back down to 8.2 and all is well.  But for racing, I would use as high of compression and as much boost as you can.  As a side note- I was messing with my waste gate back in the spring and I hit 25psi of boost on the way to work- nothin like breaking loose your tires at the top of 3rd gear- what a pucker up ride!

[fifty-five]

Yeah I did kinda the same thing, but only with 20 lbs boost. It was intense to say the least. Before this engine I had a 1600dp with 34 webbers. I believe in baby steps only a small jump in power between the 2 engines.....lol

I just hate locking the distributor after I spent so much on it.