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February 12, 2012, 09:39:09 am
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Author Topic: Throttle cable angle and re-location  (Read 1458 times)
Garrett
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« on: February 28, 2010, 04:05:25 pm »

So, I know this is a pretty common-problem, but I am not clear what the standard fix-is for this. 

I am running a set of 48 IDA's and CB hex-bar linkage with a stock doghouse fan-shroud.   The angle of where the cable exits the fan-shroud and meets up with the linkage isn't stock and it results in a pretty severe angle.   This causes the the cable to saw it's way into the "tube" (running the risk of it sticking one day - hello Toyota!) and always "pops" the tube out from the fan-shroud an inch or so.

So what's the fix?   I drilled another hole through the shroud about an inch higher than the stock location, but am not sure if that's gonna fly or not.   It doesn't want to meet-up with bottom oval hole, and it looks crooked so I drilled all the way through.    That's fine and nice and all, but now I am thinking that it won't clear the body once the engine is re-installed.

I thought about using a long spring to replace the tube.  Making a custom tube with a bend in it.     What do you guys do?  I am sure this problem has been solved many times before.   

-Garrett
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1961bluebug
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« Reply #1 on: February 28, 2010, 05:39:39 pm »

IŽd make/buy something like this: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=786740

I went wit CSP linkage and bent the tabs a little to line up with the throttle tube to avoid any hex bar related problems

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leaker
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« Reply #2 on: February 28, 2010, 06:13:59 pm »

I use that roller throttle tube kit that I bought on Samba.So far,so smooth,so good Smiley
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youngnstudly
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« Reply #3 on: February 28, 2010, 06:28:36 pm »

I had the same problem and I used the "relocation method" for my fix. I also put the throttle cable tube in a tubing bender and gave it some more angle as well. I did have to weld a big washer onto the end of the tube to keep it in place (as shown in the pic).  Here you can see I just used a chrome metal plug to cap my stock hole. I could still shorten the heim joint rods a little to get more travel but I have many other things going on right now, so that can wait.

Andy

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-Andy
Fritter
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« Reply #4 on: February 28, 2010, 06:40:22 pm »

Make a longer pivot arm?  Buy the cb or berg linkage?  Once you start moving that hole the angle gets kinda severe.
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Mike Fritz
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Garrett
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« Reply #5 on: February 28, 2010, 10:12:08 pm »

I disn't know what the roller-kit was, sounds like something worth looking into though!  I like it!  

The longer arm sounds like-a-plan at first, but it will limit (reduce) the travel to open the throttle.  As it is, I had to grind a bunch off the stop on my roller pedal to get full throttle the way it is now.  I don't think that's the solution....

The CSP linkage sounds like a fine idea, I'll have to look into that - but so-far am thinking I'll see how I can make the CB linkage work.  I assume this is a universal problem with a well-known solution - (just not to me)   Maybe the roller-kit is the ticket?
« Last Edit: February 28, 2010, 10:18:22 pm by Garrett » Logged
Brandon Sinclair
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« Reply #6 on: March 01, 2010, 02:40:10 am »

The cause of the problem are the Big Beef manifolds which raise the hex bar approx 1" higher then when using the offset manifolds.  If you look at an engine with the offset manifolds the hex bar runs close to the top of the alternator or generator, but if you look at the photo above you can see where the hex bar linkage is approx 1" higher then the top of the alternator and this is using the lowest setting.

The fixes have been to redrill the hole in the shroud, go to the hardware store and get a roller similar to one that is used on a sliding screen door and pop rivit it right above the cable tube so that it will not saw through the tube (this guy has a set up for sale with the roller attached to the tube  http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=786740), or lengthen the hex bar arm.

I am going to try something different-If you look at the filter bases the lowest hole for the ball screw is not on the bottom-I am going to drill and tap the holes lower approx 1" on the filter bases so that it will lower the hex bar all together and be in better alignment with the stock shroud exit hole.  I may have to shorten the threaded rods that attach the carbs and the hex bar, but that is yet to be determined-I have been lazy lately.
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Warner
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« Reply #7 on: March 01, 2010, 06:53:49 pm »

I had the exact same problem Garrett, and went with the CSP linkage (Chuck installed it for me).  He was impressed with the linkage and I feel better knowing the cable isn't going to cut a groove into the guide and stick wide open.  It's a much slicker linkage for sure. 

                     Warner
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HotrodVW
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« Reply #8 on: March 06, 2010, 02:27:38 am »

Here's my $5.00 fix.  I beleive I was the first with this idea.   Grin  Exta points if anyone can tell me what it's from....


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Garrett
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« Reply #9 on: March 06, 2010, 10:02:25 am »

Here's my $5.00 fix.  I beleive I was the first with this idea.   Grin  Exta points if anyone can tell me what it's from....





The roller for a sliding glass door?
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HotrodVW
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« Reply #10 on: March 06, 2010, 10:49:23 am »

That's the closest any one has guessed........but no.  Wink
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Garrett
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« Reply #11 on: March 06, 2010, 11:54:30 am »

That's the closest any one has guessed........but no.  Wink

Garage door opener part.......
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HotrodVW
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« Reply #12 on: March 06, 2010, 03:18:46 pm »

Nope
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sinikl
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« Reply #13 on: March 12, 2010, 02:26:41 am »

wheel for a patio screen door.
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HotrodVW
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« Reply #14 on: March 12, 2010, 03:22:14 am »

Bingo  =)     Screen Door Roller
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