Thought I'd post a couple pics...

[Dyno Don]

....congrats again Martin for a great build and for sharing the video with everyone....program sounds most optimistic. Kudo's  to Steve for his build and tune talents.  You Europeans are simply AMAZING..!!Good Luck/ Dyno

[martin]

Haha, thanks, I dunno where those tuner guys were from, maybe Quebec? We are in Canada. Steve is from Etobicoke (Toronto) Ontario.

[Dyno Don]

 sorry about the euro quip...meant Canada....engine sounds tight and the turbo spools bitchin'...and all under the hood as well...you should drive proud my vw brother...we can all learn a few things  by others around us...   keep an eye on things and keep us updated.     Dyno Don 

[martin]

Thanks for the kind words! That area of Ontario in the vid is very German, known for the Octoberfest that goes on there. btw, when my sister and brother-in-law were at one of the events at Nick's you acknowledged them visiting from Canada making them pretty happy. Nice to have good neighbours!

[martin]

I had a chance to talk to Steve about the hp graph. You will notice a drop in the power just before the rev limiter cuts in. He put this safety area at that point to make it easier on the engine as it hits the limiter. When boost is added later the torque curve will shoot up! (not with my stock trans)

[65bug]

Congrats! That motor sounds nice! With onlyh 5 pounds of boost at 200 near 200 hp! Very nice job!

[martin]

It was only 3 pounds of boost. The sound is incredible. On Sat. night we drove thru Little Italy (nightclub district) and taking off from a light in front of a crowd outside a club, EVERYONE turned and looked wondering where the Ferrari was!

[martin]

I looked at the datalog of the dyno run and snapped a pic to post. The cursor can be moved back and forth thru time in increments of about 20 rpm during the dyno run so you can see each number as it changes. Notice the manifold pressure (MAP) in kPa is 123 or 3 psi.

[martin]

I've been driving the car 20 miles to work every day and enjoying the hp tremendously. My trip is mostly expressway and the other day coming home from work there was an accident. A kid had plowed thru the sound barrier onto the Gardiner ahead of me, killing himself and hitting several of the 3 lanes of speeding cars. The delay was 2 hours of idling the turbo on that hot day without overheating or fouling the plugs. I've been getting great mileage too. Since the temps dropped lately and I still want to drive the car, I finally changed oil from regular 10W30 to synthetic LiquiMoly 5W40. It has worked well although I haven't had it running hot at high speed to see if it can better maintain the 10psi/1000rpm. When cold the pressure is more reasonable, and better yet, it has consumed very little oil compared with the reg oil. We think it is a problem with oil drainage at the turbo and the oil getting sucked thru the ex side of the turbo instead. I saw grey smoke out the exhaust occasionally when getting on the gas at highway speeds, but not everytime. This synth oil that German car owners are raving about seems to help that problem. They also have a 0W40 and a 10W60.

[martin]

The motor is still impressing us with its power since it has been 'dragging the turbo along for the ride' as Steve said. Even with the turbo acting restrictive, the exhaust is the old AJ Sims small one meant for his turbo 1600 kits, along with stock heater boxes. It makes almost 200hp at the wheels and would make more like 300 with a header and velocity stack on the single VW van throttle body ALL MOTOR. Amazing for a low compression motor. It has over 3000 miles on it now and all I've done is change the oil. It still has the valve adjustment it got on the engine stand, and has the break in plugs in it as well still. It was just so much fun to drive and runs so well.
I had him take apart the front end to free up a sticky inner bushing on the left lower torsion tube on the replacement Brazil stock beam. I meant to do that after I rebuilt the front end in '01 but didn't get to it, and now 12,000 miles later he has it apart for me. 3 out of 4 of the replacement Febi ball joints are gone in those few miles. Also the one non-NOS tie rod joint is shot too, the others were NOS are are still mint. It's worth re examining earlier fixes like this. Note in this pic you can see the factory beam supports going back to the pan.

[martin]

The front end is now back together and working smoothly. One of the arm bushings inside the beam was too tight on the replacement Brazil beam and was binding on the arm. To ream the inner bushing to size, Steve made this tool. The outer end (where he's holding it) fits perfectly snug into the outer needle bearing. The inner end (on the left) fits inside the micarta bushing and is made of hardened steel with a groove acting as a cutting edge (doesn't show in the pic) that when turned with a wrench will ream the bearing inside to size in line with the outer needle bearing. This way the arm will pivot smoothly without any play. I would recommend using this on any replacement beam that has this problem.

[martin]

Here's a pic showing the cutter on the tool.