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May 23, 2012, 09:24:25 pm
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Author Topic: Removing 46 MM axle nut on my 70 bay window  (Read 361 times)
apann1051
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« on: October 25, 2011, 08:38:31 pm »

I can not budge the nut tried breaker bar I bought 46mm scocket from sears Impact just laughs at me ajny ideas!

Tony
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Dougzilla
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« Reply #1 on: October 25, 2011, 08:56:15 pm »

Apply liberal thermal energy and blunt force trauma. (heat and beat)
Excessive leverage soaked with penatrating oil. (cheater pipe)
Foul Language always seems to help.
Keep small children and wife away till completed.
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apann1051
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« Reply #2 on: October 25, 2011, 09:03:16 pm »

thanks Doug I been putting Liquid Wrench everyday No torch They ( my Kids!) won't let me play fire,that what I have to do
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Mike Lawless
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« Reply #3 on: October 26, 2011, 04:52:20 pm »

It didn't take long to break my 1/2" drive breaker bar putting axle nuts and gland nut on and off.

I bought a 3/4" drive Craftsman breaker bar and corresponding socket, and made up a six foot cheater bar for that, plus another bar with a plate that has a couple holes on the end that would bolt to the drum by a couple of the lug nuts. This bar is about six feet in length. Once bolted to the drum and rotated in a position where the opposite end's turning force is against the ground, then you can apply gorilla pressure to the breaker bar with the six foot cheater.

Otherwise, those "torque meister" tools are supposed to be pretty good. I've never used one of those.
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rockerarm
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« Reply #4 on: October 29, 2011, 05:25:18 am »

What might suit your purpose is a tool called a "striking wrench". I have had both 36mm and a 46mm ones for years and they have not failed me.
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Cptn. Calzone
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« Reply #5 on: October 30, 2011, 05:38:28 pm »

I second the striking wrench, empi sells one, it fits the socket tightly and you smack it witha big hammer, IT WILL MOVE.
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jgerock
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« Reply #6 on: October 30, 2011, 06:57:41 pm »

Otherwise, those "torque meister" tools are supposed to be pretty good. I've never used one of those.

I bought one of the Torque Meister tools from Kymco a while back.  It really works great on gland nuts and rear axle nuts (with the drum plate).  Otherwise, my 1/2" drive Craftsman breaker bar with 36mm socket has been enough.  Tool tip:  Remove the handle from your floor jack and slip it over the breaker bar for instant gorilla leverage.  Make sure it is over the breaker bar enough or it might go flying off into the yard. 
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Jim Gerock
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« Reply #7 on: October 30, 2011, 11:27:35 pm »

HaHaHa I've done all of the above, only to find out that I was dealing with a left hand thread. Turn it to the right...(BTW) I was dealing with an automatic...don't know if there'a a difference Wink
« Last Edit: October 30, 2011, 11:38:40 pm by WV-VW » Logged

Larry Tucker
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« Reply #8 on: November 10, 2011, 11:44:23 pm »

Breaker bars have been what I have used in the past but those craftsman breaker bars tend to break when forced like that. I would also get a large impact wrench on there to at least try and loosen it up. That's what I use now.
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John P
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« Reply #9 on: November 12, 2011, 01:47:24 pm »

If it were me, it depends on what's in your tool arsenal.

From cheapest on up:

1. Soak with PB Blaster (let dwell) and apply heat. Spend a few bucks on PB Blaster and a propane torch.
2. Use a 6 foot pipe over a breaker bar. Warning, however: I have broken 1/2" drive versions as well.
3. If those don't work, and you don't have an appropriate 3/4" drive versions, rather than buying one (with matching socket), I would buy the Torque Meister tool. I've used mine for both drums and flywheel gland nuts for years and prefer it. Much easier, especially if you're working by yourself.

Good luck.

J
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