Where it is leaking? At the top of the sump (where it mates to the case) or at the bottom (where the drain plate joins)?
what can i do so it will not leak. do you guys use the studs or bolts.
I've used both, with good results. If it's anything larger than a 1.5 quart sump, I use bolts due to the added weight/stress.
They often leak (at both locations) due to two reasons:
1. The mating surfaces aren't flat.
2. The nuts are overtorqued, squishing the gasket and causing a leak.
I suggest removing the sump, using a lead pencil to draw on the mating surface of the sump. Gently sand on a piece of glass with a single sheet of sand paper, moving the sump in different directions. Check your work to ensure that it is evenly sanding and is level (you monitor your progress but watching the lead pencil wear away). Then use a straight edge to confirm that you're flat.
Do the same process for the bottom of the sump (where the drain plate is) if it's leaking there. AND THEN do the same for the drain plate, which often have little ridges around the holes (causing leaks) from being overtorqued.
Straight edge the engine case mating surface as well to check for flatness.
CLEAN. And then clean some more.
I've had good results using this technique with stock gaskets. I think it was Donnie B.

who suggested spraying the stock, paper gaskets with shellac (

) (I forget what it specifically was) in order to stop the paper gasket's tendency to wick and subsequently leak oil. A great idea, IMHO.
For the case to sump nuts/bolts, I use lock washers and Loctite. TIGHTEN TO FACTORY SPECS (I forget what those are, but it ain't much). For the sump to drain plate nuts, I use the factory, capped/acorn nuts with the stock wavy washers. AGAIN, TIGHTEN TO FACTORY SPECS.
My 1.5 cents. Good luck.
JP