The California Look, Classic Volkswagen Beetle, Bus, Ghia, Street and Racing

Navigation
News

May 23, 2012, 03:33:09 pm
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Print
Author Topic: OEM Tin color  (Read 1272 times)
65bug
Part of the woodwork
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1215


« on: March 18, 2011, 06:40:48 pm »

Hey guys,
     Allright, I am about ready to re-assemble my motor after the accident. I purchased a new OEM fan cover(that bolts to the shroud) and am wondering what color black this is? Is it satin black? Or semi-gloss black? I want to match it to my OEM shroud.
     I had the fresh air outlets cut off and welded up, as well as the oil outlet at the 2:00-ish area on top of the shroud.
     I really want the motor to look nice. Not totally crazy show, just very clean and nice.
     I have more patience this time and want it to look really clean!

Thanks! Wink
Logged
John P
Administrator
Part of the woodwork
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 1687



WWW
« Reply #1 on: March 26, 2011, 10:33:38 am »

The 1300 from my Euro '67 is completely original, down to the clamps and hoses and fuel lines  Shocked (since replaced).

The tin is a low gloss (semi), and was spray painted (not powder coated). Most people shoot it either too flat or too glossy. What I've done in the past if it comes out a bit too flat (depending on the paint I've used) is to polish and wax it by hand until I get the right finish. 

Eastwood offers a nice selection of various finishes in black.

My 1.5 cents.

JP
Logged

'67 Cal-Look Bug
Cornpanzer's
Glenn
Part of the woodwork
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2175



WWW
« Reply #2 on: March 26, 2011, 10:53:28 am »

Mines a powder painted satin finish.



Here's a late model NOS tin.

Logged

65bug
Part of the woodwork
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1215


« Reply #3 on: March 26, 2011, 11:03:08 am »

John,
     Thanks alot for the reply! I bought a small rotary painter and am painting the parts myself.
    IT's very hard to match that color exactly. I did exactly what you said!
    I used a flat black heat paint. Then I clear coated it with a satin clear coat. Then, waxed the parts. It's darn close!
    I'm learning alot here!
Logged
65bug
Part of the woodwork
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1215


« Reply #4 on: March 26, 2011, 11:08:38 am »

Glenn,
      Thanks for the help! My motor will look very similar to yours! Even down to the Berg breather box. I have the rounded model before yours!
     Just was down at Gene Berg and was told they are going to make a new run of all aluminum ones! Should be really nice!
      I am betting they will be upwards of 300.00. I stripped mine down to the metal before painting. There is a lot of quality work gone into them! I love mine and have never had a problem with it!
      Can those air cleaners you have be used on Dell's? I would love to get away from my cb linkage and go with teh Berg or CSP!
      Thanks Glenn, your motor looks great!
Logged
Glenn
Part of the woodwork
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2175



WWW
« Reply #5 on: March 26, 2011, 11:29:10 am »

I don't see why the Uni Filters would not fit Dells.
Logged

John P
Administrator
Part of the woodwork
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 1687



WWW
« Reply #6 on: March 26, 2011, 11:55:43 am »

I've always loved your engine, Glenn - so clean, simple and understated (until you floor the skinny pedal).

Glenn's tin looks VERY close the original, 44 year-old unrestored tin on my 1300. The slight difference may be due, in part, to aging.

J
Logged

'67 Cal-Look Bug
Cornpanzer's
65bug
Part of the woodwork
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1215


« Reply #7 on: March 26, 2011, 03:56:39 pm »

Glenn,
  Did you get those Unifilters from ACE? Any specs on filtration on those? Here's a pic of my motor before the accident. I used a spackle paint finish. Now I want original look! The second pic is after the accident! I got really lucky. Just minor damage! Carbs ok too! Case was not touched!
Logged
65bug
Part of the woodwork
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1215


« Reply #8 on: March 26, 2011, 03:57:36 pm »

My Berg breather box made is out UNSCATHED!!!!!!
Logged
Glenn
Part of the woodwork
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2175



WWW
« Reply #9 on: March 26, 2011, 04:28:14 pm »

I got them from Aircooled.net

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=FSK0046&cartid=
Logged

65bug
Part of the woodwork
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1215


« Reply #10 on: March 26, 2011, 05:50:09 pm »

Thanks Glenn! Owch! 60 clams?Huh? Well, nothings cheap when you live in Ca. and cannot make any money anymore........LOL
Logged
65bug
Part of the woodwork
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1215


« Reply #11 on: March 27, 2011, 05:16:34 pm »

Doing some mock ups and getting excited! Still have work to do on the shroud and need to remove a few more tin pieces to strip and paint. Getting there slowly but surely!
Logged
Glenn
Part of the woodwork
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2175



WWW
« Reply #12 on: March 27, 2011, 05:49:48 pm »

Take your time trimming the cylinder tin for the intake manifolds. Trim as little as you need to.
Logged

65bug
Part of the woodwork
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1215


« Reply #13 on: March 27, 2011, 09:26:55 pm »

Glenn,
   Thanks! I will. I know I have to cut them. The old ones got beat up so I purchased new ones and I will have to cut them open a bit. I have a dremel with carbide disks.
   If I remember correctly, it takes time. How did you cut yours?
     Thanks Glenn
Logged
Glenn
Part of the woodwork
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2175



WWW
« Reply #14 on: March 27, 2011, 09:52:33 pm »

I used tin snips.

If you purchased aftermarket tins, make sure the have the V deflector between the spark plug holes. If not you can get them here.

http://www.awesomepowdercoat.com/cooling_modifications.html
Logged

65bug
Part of the woodwork
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1215


« Reply #15 on: March 27, 2011, 11:43:51 pm »

Glenn,
   Wow! I never even knew about those Thanks a million! I am ordering a set of them. I just hope my manifolds will allow them enough room to stay! I am guessing they will.
     Great website! I have the original doghouse German shroud, so I assume I need no hoover bit??? Mine seems to fit snug with no gaps.
    Thanks.
     
Logged
Sleeper 64
Intermediate
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 411



« Reply #16 on: March 28, 2011, 12:48:23 am »

Always use a Hoover bit
Logged

It might not be fast but it is paid for.
65bug
Part of the woodwork
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1215


« Reply #17 on: March 28, 2011, 01:05:56 am »

Yes, I took a look and see that I need one.......
Logged
Glenn
Part of the woodwork
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2175



WWW
« Reply #18 on: March 28, 2011, 06:21:11 am »

Always use a Hoover bit
Agreed.

I have IDAs and was able to retain the V deflectors

Stock left and cut for IDAs right.
Logged

John P
Administrator
Part of the woodwork
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 1687



WWW
« Reply #19 on: March 28, 2011, 12:21:30 pm »

I have DDS IDA manifolds which get fat quickly, and had to trim the V deflector a bit in order to get everything to fit, but it did and still functions as it should, sitting nice and tight against the fins.
Logged

'67 Cal-Look Bug
Cornpanzer's
65bug
Part of the woodwork
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1215


« Reply #20 on: March 28, 2011, 10:34:56 pm »

Thanks John! What manifolds are your motor Glenn? I have Cb big beef manifolds.
   So whats the story behind the hoover bit? When was it introduced? Was it for the later 1600 cc motors?
   Thanks
Logged
Glenn
Part of the woodwork
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2175



WWW
« Reply #21 on: March 28, 2011, 10:41:33 pm »

My manifolds are generic IDA.



The Hoover bit was introduced with the offset oil cooler. It seals the cooler to the tin so the air goes through the cooler and not around it.

Logged

65bug
Part of the woodwork
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1215


« Reply #22 on: March 29, 2011, 08:55:56 pm »

Glenn,
      Thanks alot. I am in contact with them and will purchase a hoover bit. I am even thinking about purchasing used German times with the deflectors welded onto them.
    My problem is my aftermarket lower tin. The heat deflectors I guess you call them? Mine do not line up at all and are pretty dam ugly.
   I am going to purchase them as well.
Logged
Glenn
Part of the woodwork
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2175



WWW
« Reply #23 on: March 29, 2011, 10:29:32 pm »

I'm always on the hunt for OEM tin that's in good shape for future project. Because when you need it you just want to take out of a box.

If you're using J tubes, don't forget the lower industrial shields.

Logged

65bug
Part of the woodwork
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1215


« Reply #24 on: March 29, 2011, 10:46:24 pm »

Glenn,
   Great shot there! WOW!!! VERY CLEAN!!!!! Shocked Shocked I am going to order the industrial shield as well.
     Yes, I have J-Tubes as well. Man, I love your coated headed! Very nice!
   I slid my new VW OEM cooler down into my fan shroud. I see the big gap or slot where the hoover needs to go!That gap has to be letting a ton of cooling air escape through it.
      Has anyone ever tried to do a temp comparisons with and without the hoover bit??
 Thanks Glenn
   
Logged
65bug
Part of the woodwork
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1215


« Reply #25 on: April 12, 2011, 03:08:40 pm »

Hey guys,
        Ordered my parts from Clark over at awesomepowdercoat.com! I will have next week the following:
1. REAL GERMAN cylinder tins w/ the air deflectors in them!
2. Real Hoover Bit!
3. Real VW OEM Sled boxes W/ Clarks Industrial shields!
4. Rebuilt German air flaps for my fan shroud.
5. A bunch-a other goodies too!
     I HAVE A CONFESSION TO MAKE!!! AND CLARK POINTED IT OUT TO ME..........
      I HAD MY SLED BOXES ON BACKWARDS...............LOL! I hope Bruce does not read this! Hey, live and learn.
     Hey, it still ran cool! With them on the right way now, and a hoover bit I should be running cool as a cucumber here for summer..........
Logged
65bug
Part of the woodwork
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1215


« Reply #26 on: April 12, 2011, 03:09:36 pm »

Also, I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND CLARK TO ANYONE!!! GREAT GUY WITH VERY FAIR PRICES!!!!!!!

   THANKS CLARK!
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Print
 
Jump to: