No shocks on a narrowed beam!

[smokin66]

I want to get a narrowed beam probably 3-4 inches narrowed. I'm wondering how much of a difference does it make not having shocks compared to having shocks when the front beam is narrowed. Any feedback is greatly appreicated.

[theastronaut]

It's easy to have shocks on a 3 or 4" beam. I'm running an original german beam narrowed 3.5 inches with the factory shock towers leaned out to clear the body. Plate shock towers would have been easier, but I wanted my beam to look stock if anybody took the time to look in the fenderwells. Check out that og paint in the fenderwells! Shocks are kinda important if you want to turn or stop safely... take the time to do the job correctly.

[smokin66]

That's good to know i should be able to run shock towers with the narrow i want. I have a set of 195/45's but not sure if i want to use those now since the profile is so small. Thanks for the info. Great paint job in the fendwell there lol

[Dave Conklin (Cornpanzers)]

There is a popular misconception that narrowed beams do not need shocks. First of all, you have to consider what a shock absorber is for. The name is a good hint =)  The shock is there to even out any oscillation in the suspension over bumps. In other words, it dampens the compression and rebound cycle so that you dont bounce up and down the road like a pogo stick.

Now, I have hear many resto cal guys say "my 6" narrowed beam doesnt bounce like that,and I dont have shocks". Well, Bunkie, that is probably because you put the full leaf stack in the beam and you have no suspension movement in the first place.  Remember, when you cut and shorten the leaf spring stack, you are increasing the spring rate dramatically. That spring stack has to twist in order to give "suspension". The shorter stack gives less area for twist and thus results in a higher spring rate. IMO, any narrowed beam should have a few of the springs removed. The narrower you go, the more springs need to come out, thereby retaining the same suspension quality as stock. I have seen cars with super-narrow beams hit bumps and the wheels nearly come off the ground, because the suspension is for all intents and purposes solid.

So, if you have good suspension movement like a car should have, then you once again need shocks to control that movement.  There is absolutely no reasonable fact and engineering based argument for not putting shock absorbers on your front beam.

[theastronaut]

Good point Dave. I took all of the 1/2 size leaves out of my 3.5" beam. I did cut one of the leaves into 2" long sections and tack welded them in the center and on the ends where the adjusters and trailing arm grub screws attach so that I'd have the full leaf stack in those places. It rides great, better than stock actually- even with the gas shocks that are currently on it. 

[madoski]

Good point Dave. I took all of the 1/2 size leaves out of my 3.5" beam. I did cut one of the leaves into 2" long sections and tack welded them in the center and on the ends where the adjusters and trailing arm grub screws attach so that I'd have the full leaf stack in those places. It rides great, better than stock actually- even with the gas shocks that are currently on it. 

Do you need the full stack where the grub screws go?  Could you just use longer grub screws if necessary?

[theastronaut]

The full stack is needed since the height of the stack is what properly locates the stack in the adjusters and in the trailing arms. The leaves would also be able to spread apart when the grub screw is tightened if the full stack isn't present so the grub screw wouldn'tt effectivly have a hold on the stack. Those screws are all that holds your trailing arms in place so you need them to anchor into the leaf stack the best they can!

[Dave Conklin (Cornpanzers)]

I am speaking from a ball-joint perspective - not sure how this applies to k-p.

If you pull only the small springs out, you wont have a problem. If one was really concerned, he could cut small pieces out of the springs that were being removd and tig weld them to the spring stack where it passes through the adjuster and the trailing arms.

[vwrodder]

not to get off the subject totaly, but I just rebuit my ball joint beam. so I put it on the car no shocks yet. back wheels are still off, so I cant move the car. The beam seems to be setting realy high, so if I roll the car forward will it drop back to normal?

[Ohio Tom (DdK)]

Usually, driving the car for a mile or 2 will settle any suspension down about 1/2" to 1". depending on spring rates and tightness of new parts.

[Bruce Tweddle]

Plus, it will go down more when you fill the tank.

[pupjoint]

I am speaking from a ball-joint perspective - not sure how this applies to k-p.

If you pull only the small springs out, you wont have a problem. If one was really concerned, he could cut small pieces out of the springs that were being removd and tig weld them to the spring stack where it passes through the adjuster and the trailing arms.

dave, did you remove the small springs from both the torsion bars?

i run a 4 inch beam, no adjusters, spindles, full springs.

previously on monroes, the front end was bumpy.

just by switching the stock oil shocks, ride was smooth and nice.