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Gehackt
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« on: October 30, 2011, 10:14:26 pm » |
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Haven't posted much on his forum. But since I'm switching over to the dark side with my new engine, I guess I should be. I have a 2276 Engine built by Adam Kottke of Seward Speed Shop in Seward, IL. Turbo set up from AJ with a TB 73 Turbo. Just got the engine set in the car, bolted up to a Rancho Pro Drag trans. Running a new 009 with electronic ignition locked out at 24* BTDC. Engine runs great but the problem is... I installed a Mallory Hyfire VI box and know I have wired it correctly(per instructions that came with the box). The first time I tried to start the engine the light blinked on top of the box letting me know that there was power sent to fire the engine. But the second time I tried and all sequential times, the light just stays on solid and doesn't fire. With the ignition on, I check the power from the yellow wire that goes to the + side of the coil and it only registered a little less the 8 volts.
Is there any thoughts on what could be wrong or something to reset? Thanks in advance.
Big Joe
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« Last Edit: October 30, 2011, 10:26:38 pm by Gehackt »
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garyj
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« Reply #1 on: October 31, 2011, 10:42:13 am » |
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Ran into the same problem with the Mallory unit. I tossed it and went with and MSD box with a 2-step...Much easier to wire up and worked first time every time. My .02...
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VdanielW
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« Reply #2 on: October 31, 2011, 12:13:36 pm » |
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Did you follow the points wiring set up? Even if you have a pointless module in your 009 wire it up that way.
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Gehackt
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« Reply #3 on: October 31, 2011, 05:19:28 pm » |
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I wired it according to the instructions for "magnetic pick-up distributor or crank trigger ignition" All the other apps shown, none are for points. Is there somewhere I can get the diagram for that?
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Ohio Tom (DdK)
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« Reply #4 on: October 31, 2011, 08:14:16 pm » |
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Points or pertronix type units hook up to the white wire.
If you use the mag pickup input, make sure the white wire is not touching anything.
I have been using these boxes for many years and so have plenty of buddies of mine. Not any issues from anyone.
There could be several legitamate reasons for your issue.
I wouldn't go tossing it just yet...
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Ohio Tom Simpson. Home of the Killa' Bee.
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Gehackt
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« Reply #5 on: October 31, 2011, 08:31:35 pm » |
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White wire?? What white wire.
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Ohio Tom (DdK)
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« Reply #6 on: October 31, 2011, 09:43:57 pm » |
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Hmmm. Maybe i'm wrong on the color. I will look up my instructions later.
Gotta go now to spend time with wifey...
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Ohio Tom Simpson. Home of the Killa' Bee.
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VdanielW
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« Reply #7 on: November 01, 2011, 11:19:12 am » |
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Follow figure 16. The ignition control harness: red wire to ignition power, the green wire to the black wire from your distributor (your points module), black wire to the coil neg., yellow wire to your coil pos. The red wire from your distributor needs ignition power. you should be good to go. Also, figure #2 shows where all the wires in the kit go.
I run locked out at 30 deg's, and then retard timing under boost as needed with the box. It works great.
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Gehackt
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« Reply #8 on: November 01, 2011, 07:17:01 pm » |
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Follow figure 16. The ignition control harness: red wire to ignition power, the green wire to the black wire from your distributor (your points module), black wire to the coil neg., yellow wire to your coil pos. The red wire from your distributor needs ignition power. you should be good to go. Also, figure #2 shows where all the wires in the kit go.
I run locked out at 30 deg's, and then retard timing under boost as needed with the box. It works great.
Gonna give this a try! Mallory didn't help at all either. |
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Gehackt
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« Reply #9 on: November 01, 2011, 07:47:07 pm » |
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Oh thank you great Master Daniel for teaching this young(48YO) Grasshopper! Works great now. Now why can't Mallory figure this out!
Does 30* to start, make it hard to turn over when starting? or is that what the retard start is for? and if so, what how many degrees do you retard the timing back for starting? I have it wire to a switch on the dash but haven't tried a setting yet. I do know it doesn't want to crank well after she is warm. Do you also retard it 1* per LB of boost? or something different?
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« Last Edit: November 01, 2011, 07:48:38 pm by Gehackt »
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VdanielW
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« Reply #10 on: November 04, 2011, 05:15:50 pm » |
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You are welcome and I'm glad it worked for you. 30* doesn't make it hard to start (on my car atleast). Hot or cold doesn't make a difference. The Hyfire VI does have a timing retard for start up that you can set up. I tried it, but it didn't do anything different for me. For race (110 leaded) I set the timing retard at the lowest setting. For pump gas (91) I set it at (I think it's been a while since I ran strait pump gas in it) 1.6* retard/1psi of boost. You will have to play with that setting for your specific car. My old engine (1914) ran more boost and less timing retard than my 2276 does now. Mallory's tech help really does suck.
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