Introduction/2276cc Super Squish Build

[theastronaut]

I've been lurking around here for awhile now and made a couple post but havn't taken the time to introduce myself yet.  I've been into VW's about 15 years; bought my first bug when I was eight years old for $200 bucks. It's a '66, now about halfway through a frame off restoration. I've also got an OG paint, matching numbers '64 sunroof; currently running a warmed up 1600 DP with 36 DRLA's, 1.25 rockers, Bugpack 1 3/8" header and Hideaway muffler and a 12# flywheel.

I'm currently building/collecting parts for a 2276cc engine for the '66. It'll be awhile before I finish it as I've got plenty of parts left to buy for it

Build Specs:

New OEM engine case, 8mm case savers, drilled and tapped oil galleys, cut for sand seal, bored for 90.5's,
welded behind #3, clearanced for 82mm stroke, silicon bronze lifter bore sleeves,
and ported main bearing webs between the cylinder openings, Bob Hoover HVX oiling mods.
CB Performance Super Race forged 4340 crank, counterweighted, nitrided VW sized journals. I've been working on knife-edging the counterweights and profiling the rod throw arms.
Aircooled.net's Super Squish pistons
Mahle 94 barrels trimmed to fit 90.5 case.
Cam will be Web 86C, Engle FK-45/46, FK-10 or similar.
CB Super Lightweight lifters, faces polished, will be adding 3 oil grooves.
CB Straight cut cam/crank gears. (I like the noise)
Planning on using DRD L6 CNC 42x37.5 heads, match ported CB big beef manifolds.
Italian Weber 48 IDA's, around 40mm vents, tall manifolds, individual UNI filters mounted on velocity stacks.
13:1ish Static comperesion
CB .040" copper gaskets.
AirCooled.net HD aluminum pushrods
JayCee billet pushrod tubes.
CB forged rocker arms, 1.4
CB/Shadeck Maxi 30 oil pump (May seem big but I'm doing oiling mods, I believe it will need the extra volume)
Bugpack DDS style 1.5 qt deep sump.
12# flywheel, 200mm, 6V ring gear (still using a 6V starter, low buck "high torque" model).
Hidden crank trigger/Megajolt/Ford EDIS ignition.
Hybrid OG 36 horse/late doghouse fanshroud, no heat outlets, all german metal with correct internal vanes, will have all factory cooling tin- welded & balanced wide fan, FI velocity ring, flaps and thermostat, hoover bit, sled tins.
Homemade 1 5/8" heater boxes in OG housings. Bilge blowers between body and heater boxes, clamp-on filters on inlet of heater boxes.
~1 5/8" A1 Sidewinder header, thinking about dual mufflers so it's quiet.
Still have to plan a breather/crank case ventilation system.
Brad Penn Green Oil, thinner/thicker weight will be used to adjust the oil pressure to within a proper operating range.
Jeg's Pro-Flo 350 series AN hose/Black fitting for fuel/oil/breather lines.
Not planning on an external oil cooler at this point.
Remote mount filter, I'll probably use a Royal Purple element.

Here's a few pics of some of the progress I've made so far.

Ported case:







Knife-edging the counterweights and profiling the rod throws:











Any ideas/comments/suggestions about the build would be appreciated!

[bear]

what does the leading of the counterweights look like ?

[theastronaut]

what does the leading of the counterweights look like ?

I rounded off the leading edges and made the trailing edges pointed so the counterweights are shaped like a teardrop. 

Leading edge:



Trailing edge:

[Ian Godfrey]

Astronaut, the build plan looks good, I tried to avoid an external cooler too, venturi ring, sleds etc, even thermal barrier piston and chamber coatings and thermal dispersant external coatings and a T4 cooler in the doghouse.... but to no avail, when the temp gets over 90 or I stood on it a bit, I needed the external cooler. The small cooler with fan from aircooled.net did the job.
keep up the good work

[maui]

You know what. I ran a 1.5qt sump for 30yrs with no problems until my new engine was finished and I got about 10 miles on it and I gave um a blast through the gears at maybe 7+8 grand 1st and 2nd and hit 3rd and my oil light went on. So now I'm getting a 3qt sump and maybe someone can help a little more on this problem that I hope you don't get. I just no like see you spend some bucks and all of a sudden no oil to the bearings and burn bearings. I am now going to take mine apart and check if had damage. Mine is 90x94x5.88rods and C squishes and 46x38 ultra mag heads and FK87 and Deano 30ml pump full flow and 72 pass cooler and fan.

[theastronaut]

Astronaut, the build plan looks good, I tried to avoid an external cooler too, venturi ring, sleds etc, even thermal barrier piston and chamber coatings and thermal dispersant external coatings and a T4 cooler in the doghouse.... but to no avail, when the temp gets over 90 or I stood on it a bit, I needed the external cooler. The small cooler with fan from aircooled.net did the job.
keep up the good work

I'm hoping I can get by using the bigger pump/thinner weight oil for better oil flow at the same pressure; that way I won't be bypassing the stock cooler due to too much pressure and it should be getting more flow through the cooler. I'll use thin enough oil to just get 10psi per 1000 rpm. But if I'll need one I like the Setrab coolers that Aircooled.net sells, like you mention.

You know what. I ran a 1.5qt sump for 30yrs with no problems until my new engine was finished and I got about 10 miles on it and I gave um a blast through the gears at maybe 7+8 grand 1st and 2nd and hit 3rd and my oil light went on. So now I'm getting a 3qt sump and maybe someone can help a little more on this problem that I hope you don't get. I just no like see you spend some bucks and all of a sudden no oil to the bearings and burn bearings. I am now going to take mine apart and check if had damage. Mine is 90x94x5.88rods and C squishes and 46x38 ultra mag heads and FK87 and Deano 30ml pump full flow and 72 pass cooler and fan.

Haven't thought about a small sump being a problem but you're probably right.  I will be draining the heads via AN lines back to the sump to help with return oil flow and the inside of the block will be smoothed to also help with oil draining. Maybe that will be enough to get the oil back to the pickup in time but its not something I want to risk.

[martin]

I wonder if one of these would solve that problem http://www.accusump.com/

[Ohio Tom (DdK)]

The loss of oil pressure when hitting 3rd is a common thing I have seen.
I think it is best addressed by proper case porting (as we've talked about in previous post), And un-shrouding the oil drain back to the sump.
I cut away the "hood" on the oil pick up tube, or cut as much of it away as possible. With a deep sump, the hood is not really needed.
I have one of those Scat thinline sumps on my turbo 2332 race motor and I have no issues with oil starvation.

There many other things at work, but I know that these mods do help the issue.

[theastronaut]

I wonder if one of these would solve that problem http://www.accusump.com/

Interesting idea. I'd heard of guys running these to prime the oil system before start up, but didn't know they could be used for a back up system if the engine briefly lost oil pressure.

The loss of oil pressure when hitting 3rd is a common thing I have seen.
I think it is best addressed by proper case porting (as we've talked about in previous post), And un-shrouding the oil drain back to the sump.
I cut away the "hood" on the oil pick up tube, or cut as much of it away as possible. With a deep sump, the hood is not really needed.
I have one of those Scat thinline sumps on my turbo 2332 race motor and I have no issues with oil starvation.

There many other things at work, but I know that these mods do help the issue.

Cutting open the hood on the oil pickup seems like a good idea to let more oil drain back into the sump, I may use that idea on my engine.


Any ideas of how much horsepower/torque this thing should make?  Is 180-190 ft/lbs and 200-210 hp a pretty close guess?

[Bruce Tweddle]

I cut away the "hood" on the oil pick up tube, or cut as much of it away as possible. With a deep sump, the hood is not really needed.

I have always wondered what it's function was on a stock engine.  Anyone?

[maui]

you Know what Tom, I going do that hood thing and cut it or drill it and I know that will work some. And the I guess draining the heads is another good one I going do. Thanks people and have fun with your new engine Astronaut because mine one make me love VWs even more.   Aloha  Kehau

[martin]

I have always wondered what it's function was on a stock engine.  Anyone?

Apparently it's there to try and keep the oil near the pickup tube, so it won't pull in an air bubble, especially since there is so little oil in a stock engine.

You know what. I ran a 1.5qt sump for 30yrs with no problems until my new engine was finished and I got about 10 miles on it and I gave um a blast through the gears at maybe 7+8 grand 1st and 2nd and hit 3rd and my oil light went on. So now I'm getting a 3qt sump and maybe someone can help a little more on this problem that I hope you don't get. I just no like see you spend some bucks and all of a sudden no oil to the bearings and burn bearings. I am now going to take mine apart and check if had damage. Mine is 90x94x5.88rods and C squishes and 46x38 ultra mag heads and FK87 and Deano 30ml pump full flow and 72 pass cooler and fan.

It could be the pickup tube sucking air where it goes into the case.

[maui]

I'm going to check that also.  Thanks plenty.

[Bruce Tweddle]

Apparently it's there to try and keep the oil near the pickup tube, so it won't pull in an air bubble, especially since there is so little oil in a stock engine.

I don't see how the hood helps in that respect. 
Anyone else got any ideas what it's for?

[theastronaut]

I don't see how the hood helps in that respect. 
Anyone else got any ideas what it's for?

Here's my thoughts on how the hood works for a stock engine. Using a deep sump throws this out the window. Just my thoughts on the subject, read it and think about it and pick it apart; see if I'm thinking straight or if I've lost my marbles.

Think of how a shower drains. If there isn't much water in the bottom of the tub then the drain is always uncovered even if there is, say, an inch of water in the bottom of the tub. The rest of the water can't get to the drain quick enough to "fill in" the "void" right at the drain, so the drain remains uncovered with water. I think this would be how just a tube (without the hood) would would suck oil from the sump; the rest of the oil wouldn't be able to get to the pickup in time and start sucking in air.  The small tube sucking a large amount of oil in creates an area of oil moving very quickly towards the pickup tube -  kinda like the shower drain. There's also turbulance right around the end of the tube and a hood over it would hold a pocket of oil and smooth out some of the turbulance so that there isn't the same type of "void" around the bottom of the pickup tube.

Purely speculation though...