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May 22, 2012, 05:11:05 pm
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Author Topic: How to get the oil pressure relief screw out - OHIO TOM!! new question  (Read 842 times)
Ovalnut
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« on: April 03, 2011, 12:30:22 pm »

Long story short, after my motor was built we found the rear oil pressure relief screw has a small leak.  Looks like the edge of it broke away?  This is the one near the flywheel.  How do you get that thing out?  Special tool?  Trick?  It's the only thing holding me back from driving it.  

I hate to pull the Jedi "JB weld" trick on it in case I ever need it out later.
« Last Edit: April 17, 2011, 07:48:30 pm by Ovalnut » Logged

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stealth67vw
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« Reply #1 on: April 03, 2011, 01:49:40 pm »

Drag link socket and hand held impact. A drag link socket looks like a big screw driver blade.

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Ovalnut
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« Reply #2 on: April 03, 2011, 07:24:42 pm »

Got it off.  Internal threads look wasted.  Not sure what options I have to get it fixed.
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Ohio Tom (DdK)
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« Reply #3 on: April 04, 2011, 05:30:38 pm »

Chase it with a 3/8" NPT (national pipe taper) tap. It will taper the threads and then you will have to use a 3/8" pipe plug .
Run the tap in just far enough so that when the plug is installed, it holds the spring to the same compression as stock.
it may take a few tries so take your time.

Or, you can pay a welder shop to weld up the mess and re-drill and tap.
That presents its own set of new problems thou.
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Ovalnut
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« Reply #4 on: April 17, 2011, 07:50:06 pm »

Tom, am I measuring where the stock plug would sit and figuring the compression and then applying the depth measurement, etc to it with the 3/8 plug?
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KAFUR1
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« Reply #5 on: April 19, 2011, 12:26:55 am »

Drag link socket and hand held impact. A drag link socket looks like a big screw driver blade.


I have one of those man only use it every now and again but when i do i am happy i have one ! " got it from my dad  who got it from the air force.
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Ohio Tom (DdK)
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« Reply #6 on: April 19, 2011, 05:46:17 pm »

That's weird. I got mine from an Ex military man as well.
Old friend gave it to me. Perfect for the job.

Oval, you got it right. That's what I'm talking about.
A 3/8" NPT tap is taperd (so is the pipe plug). So, how far "in" the plug will rest when tightend will vary depending on how deep you drive the tap.
So, cutting/testing proceedure is needed to get it right.
hopefully, there will be enough meat left in the case to clean up the threads so it will seal.
Good luck.
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Richard Roth
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« Reply #7 on: April 19, 2011, 06:27:28 pm »

I haven't looked, but can you get a heli-coil that size ?
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Cornpanzers
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« Reply #8 on: April 19, 2011, 08:18:31 pm »

It's weird, the threads are ok at the very opening and then at the top 20%.  If I have a crush washer on it won't bite.  Crush washer off and it takes it.  This is the only thing keeping me from running the car.  Just an overlooked spot I guess.  I will look into the NPT fitting.  The 3/8 seems small because it's an 18mm bolt (measured across the threads).  I may not be understanding the NPT part I guess. I have a real good hardware store in town.  I will check it out.  I can see how it holds up with some silicone around the edges or I even have considered some JB weld around the edge of it.  I look at it this way.  The engine is rebuilt to a 1776 with a 110, dual port heads and dual Kadrons.  It's for cruising.  THe motor may last a long time.  I can try another case later if these options don't work.  At this point I just want to drive it.
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KAFUR1
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« Reply #9 on: April 19, 2011, 09:07:54 pm »

That's weird. I got mine from an Ex military man as well.
Old friend gave it to me.

     they have Big zus fasner that hold panels on the planes. airgo they have a big flat head on a  socket!!!   
« Last Edit: April 19, 2011, 09:10:55 pm by KAFUR1 » Logged
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