How to Destroy a Perferctly Good Cal-Look Car in a Few Easy Steps

[lawrence]

Why is a combination of the helphos and driving lights used? It seem redundant to me.
This thread has got me thinking about installing driving lights, but the car sits a lot (not by choice) so I don't really need them. They look pretty cool though.

John do any of your photos show cars with tow hooks? I think it would be cool to run a loop out of the bumper grommet area. Like a tbar for road racers.

[John P]

Thanks for the comments, guys.

Why is a combination of the helphos and driving lights used? It seem redundant to me.

Good eye. Yes, I'd bet that the black Beetle referenced on the bottom of the previous page has at least been converted to 12 volts, and is running halogens with relays, as there is no way that a 6 volt car could power 5 lights (at least for long  ) He may even have an alternator, as that's a contemporary photo.

And it is redundant, but probably helpful.

When I researched period photos of 6 volt cars, I noticed that following combinations been commonly run:

1. Two fog lights (yellow lenses and/or bulbs) mounted low (to get underneath the fog) and aimed outwards for the widest beam. They typically ran covers when not needed due to their vulnerability being mounted so low. An example can be seen in Paul Ernst Strahle's famous 356 here:



Notice how the fog lights are aimed outwards.



You occasionally also saw a Helphos spotlight mounted inside the windshield, which provided a directional beam, more focused, which projected straighter and farther. This helped with distance. You would run EITHER the spotlight OR the fog lights, depending on the conditions. Running a spotlight in fog would be harmful, as it would blind you as it reflected on the water droplets.

2. Two driving lights, which were typically mounted above the bumper in order to get the widest and farthest light distribution possible. In that case, a Helphos would be unnecessary. You can see an example of this on Paul Ernst Strahle's 1954 Mille Miglia class-winning 1948 Beetle:

 

Notice how high the driving lights are.

3. You would also often see one fog or driving light (or one of each - see photo below):



Either one would be run depending on the conditions. If mounting only one light, it was often accompanied by a external horn (mirroring the single light's location on the other side), especially in rallies where cars/pedestrians/animals could be an issue.

Notice on the 1948 Strahle Beetle that the driving lights appear to have been removed (presumably for a day time rally) and an external horn added.



Notice the two covered driving lights (for daytime use), facing outwards, and the two external horns mounted between them on this gorgeous bent window 356:



4. Helphos recommended the spotlight be mounted at the base of the windshield, just right of center (as mounted in the black Beetle above). However, what I noticed about a lot of period race/rally cars was that they often mounted it at the top of the windshield, just right of the rearview mirror, presumably to get a higher and broader light spectrum (as in the 356 in this photo):



I first noticed the different location on rally cars when looking at the photos my father shot for Track and Traffic of the 1965 Canadian Winter Rally. One of the photos shows a new '65 Beetle changing a tire in the snow during the race, and it has a Helphos mounted just right of the rearview mirror (like the 356 above). They also removed the front hood handle and used the top handle hole to mount a single driving light. It looked cool, similar to the center-mounted light in this photo:



There was also a new '65 Type III running in the event with a Helphos mounted in the same location.

What's cool about the Helphos is that the beam can be adjusted by rotating the base of the lamp while driving.

John do any of your photos show cars with tow hooks? I think it would be cool to run a loop out of the bumper grommet area. Like a tbar for road racers.

 
We think alike, as I was thinking of adding two subtle red two arrows to the front and rear of my car. But when I looked at period photos, I couldn't see any (aside from a the rare dedicated race car). It seems to be a more modern development beginning in the 1970s. I'm still tempted, but fear that I may be guilding the lily.

Of course none of these are hard-and-fast rules, just general observations on themes I've noticed. Anything was possible. Lights would frequently be removed/changed depending on the event.

JP
Nerd

[lawrence]

Good stuff. I was also thinking about the arrows, but would not run them. I found a yellow, aluminum tow loop on ebaymotors for under $20. Not bad. It would be more fun to visit the local metal supply, find some scrap flat stock and make my own. If I did run driving lights, a tow hook would not be on the front. It would look too cluttered. Maybe not.

I also found a fiberglass, speedster seat shell on ebaymotors. It needs to be upholstered, but would look perfect in the driver position. Plus its way better than the park bench seats beetles originally have.

It would be cool to display a car in road race style at a show. Driving lights, tow hooks, bungee around beam to hold hood down, tape on lights, door numbers and a single driver seat. A helmet and gloves would be sweet too.

[Dave Conklin (Cornpanzers)]

You might want to consider one of these. I hear they are quite handy too.

[lawrence]

I'm just going to assume that little jab is aimed at John.

[Dave Conklin (Cornpanzers)]

But of course =)

[John P]

Back to work on the destruction of a perfectly good Cal-Look car...

I installed the Helphos search/spot/rally light. I was glad that I bought a NOS unit, with all of the ancillary parts and instructions, as it wouldn't have been intuitively obvious to me without them.

Step 1: Place one drop of the supplied glycerine on your index finger and work it in really well on the rubber lip so that it is completely covered. Only one drop: too little and it won't hold; too much and it won't hold.

Step 2: Clean the inside of the windshield really well (I used vinegar/water). Unhook the light body from the glass lens, and place it on the windshield. Insert the supplied small wire between the rubber seal and windshield.

Step 3: Push on the center of the glass lens, which allows the air to escape (due to the inserted wire between the windshield and rubber seal). Remove the wire while still pressing on the center of the lens. Now move the 6 cam levers 180 degrees (while still pushing on the center of the lens), which pulls the lens away from the seal, creating a vacuum.

Step 4: Hook the light body onto the lens. Viola!

In photo #1, you can see the rally light in the down (or daytime use) position.

In photo #2, you can see it in the on (or nighttime use) position. This is achieved by simply swiveling the light body. I also call this the "Vlad the Impaler" position. 

 

[John P]

In terms of the mounting location, Helphos recommends front and center, mounted low. The challenge is that this location would block my center defroster vent (yes, my car has good defrost to the windshield). Since I drive my car year 'round, that wouldn't do.

I also thought about mounting it at the top of the windshield to the passenger side of the rear view mirror, as many rally cars did (presumably for visibility and distance). The problem with this location is it negates the use of the passenger side sun visor, which I need when driving off into to the sunset with my wife.  

So I mounted it just right of center, so that I could still get most of the center defrost and also be able to operate the headlights and open the glove box with the rally light in the "daytime" position.

Photo #1 shows it installed. You can tell that the right amount of glycerin was applied due to the even black ring. An old rubber seal may not hold, but the NOS one was still supple.

Photo #2 is an overall shot.

[John P]

I tested the light - I still have to finalize the wiring - and was surprised at how bright it was. The bulb is only 35 watts, and has a bright, white light (like a halogen, but it's not, as it's an old, NOS bulb). This is likely due to the quality of the glass reflector.

Photo #1 shows a comparison to my 6 volt headlights.

Photo #2 shows the spotlight (w/o headlights) on the wall, which is quite bright (especially when standing in front of it). You simply adjust the height and beam pattern by rotating the body. The light is turned on/off by moving the the rocker switch on the back.

Another project in the coming months is to install relays on both the headlights (to increase brightness) and fog lights (to reduce the load to the NOS Hella fog light switch).

My car will then be ready for the Mulsanne straight at 2 AM.   

 

[florIDA 63]

As a fan of the previous incarnation of this car, it's kinda neat to see the latest transformation. I have always been a fan of the vintage road race look. Herbie was ahead of his time. Mine retains the original Carello driving light from the movie... Although the Polyglas tires leave much to be desired in the ride dept.... Keep up the great work. I like where it's going!

[John P]

Thanks - I'm having fun with the changes.

Your car looks mint. I love the single Carello light, as seen in Herbie Goes to Monte Carlo. I experimented with a single light as well, but settled on two (for now  )

I bet that you can't drive that car for 1 mile without people hanging out of the window and screaming "HERBIE!" at you.

J

[florIDA 63]

It gets pretty surreal at times. The coolest thing is driving at night and seeing random camera flashes go off all around you. Paparazzi !!!  Since this is the Cal-look forum, I suppose I should show you the business end of Herbie too. He needed some pep in his step, so the stock tranny and 40hp was set aside in favor of a rancho tranny and a 2 liter. I'm putting the finishing touches on it, and aside from mounting the vintage breather and lines, it should be good to go this spring. 48 IDAs in a genuine movie car. Best of both worlds...

[Bruce Tweddle]

Where can we get one of those oil filler adapters?

[David Ward]

^^^^ The kind of engine Herbie SHOULD have had in the movies!!!   

[Glenn]

Nice 010

[florIDA 63]

Thanks for the compliments gang. I found the oil filler extension on thesamba last year. It was made in the 70's by some company in Las Vegas. It's sand cast, but fits like a glove, and I thought it gave the motor a vintage feel, not to mention the functionality of not making a mess when adding oil without a funnel now! Glenn, if it weren't for your knowledge, I'd still be cursed trying to get those damn 009s to smooth out. Ive switched all 3 of my vw's to either 010s or 019s and never looked back...Thanks for stocking the parts so I can keep these things purring!

[Glenn]

Glenn, if it weren't for your knowledge, I'd still be cursed trying to get those damn 009s to smooth out. Ive switched all 3 of my vw's to either 010s or 019s and never looked back...Thanks for stocking the parts so I can keep these things purring!

Glad to help out.

[John P]

More inspiration...

1962 Kenyan Rally Beetle



3000 miles rally in Africa. Notice the Helphos on the inside of the windshield, and the passenger side mirror light.

More Modern



Looks like fun:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JdAlUp-kngE&feature=related

[John P]

And more inspiration...



1964 Bathurst 500

LOVE the Mini as well!



But don't go too fast, or else!

[John P]

I'm really excited about this next addition, but suspect that you either love it or hate it, so to speak. I wanted a period-correct, original competition seat, and was looking at many options.

It's an NOS Universal Rally Seat cover, and these were a popular addition on competition VWs back in the day. In fact, the famous 1962 Kenyan Safari Rally winning Beetle pictured below ran one:



 

As we all know, Beetle seats were never meant to hold you in corners, as the cars were never intended for sporting purposes. A popular option was to simply tie these covers on and you had instant bolsters and a snug fitting seat. Period reviews of them raved about their comfort.

What appealed to me about these is that you really don't see them anymore - less common than Speedster seats, etc. - and I think that it will be a cool addition. Plus, my interior is completely original, and the seats are very comfortable - you realize how much less comfortable a reupholstered seat is with foam versus the original "horse hair" - and this will enable me to keep the driver's seat.

The covers are vinyl with "basket weave" inserts and smooth bolsters.

I'll post pics once I install them.



 

[Dave Conklin (Cornpanzers)]

Hmmmm...Do you have to wear one of these as a driving suit when you use those seat covers?

[Fritter]

Neat!  How on earth did you find that, never heard of it!

[John P]

Neat!  How on earth did you find that, never heard of it!

Witches brew 

More inspiration...

[John P]

Installed the "Universal Rally Seat Cover" (see attached pics) and have put a few miles on the car since then.

Some observations:

- I like the looks, despite the fact that it doesn't match the rest of the interior. Probably because that is how they were run back in the day.
- Shockingly, they are very comfortable, and the bolsters actually work, holding you in corners.
- I'm a skinny guy, however, and the fit is comfortably snug, so they wouldn't work for those carrying a few more pounds. You can tell that they were made for skinny Europeans in the '60s   So no Dave, the fat suit pictured above won't work.
- The only thing I've noticed is that, if you're tall-ish - I'm 6-6.1"-ish - it moves you just a tad closer to the steering wheel and you sit just a tad higher. Even with my seat adjusted all the way back, the steering wheel is closer to my legs, made more noticeable by the fact that the bolsters push your legs together closer. I'm getting used to the new driving position, but it has taken some time as I've driven the car for 15 years in the old driving position

So overall, I'm pretty happy with it.

[John P]

And just to show that these were not unusual back in the day, you can see a rally seat cover with much more pronounced bolsters in the interior of the rally/race Beetle below.



Notice the "elephant hide" stitched into the cover to reduce wear on the bolsters. LOVE the period "polo" helmet, gloves, lap belts and steering wheel.

[Fritter]

Looks good. The gtv wheel and deano shifter should be donated to me, they are not period correct for a rally car motif John.

Also, not sure how the 356 got in my post!

[John P]

Thanks Mike. I took the car for a spin today in the cold rain to run some errands, and I'm really getting used to the feel of the seat cover. Cozy.

Looks good. The gtv wheel and deano shifter should be donated to me, they are not period correct for a rally car motif John.

I think I'll keep them for awhile yet - BTW, that's Joe Vittone's signature on the steering wheel spoke. But I'm not convinced the wheel isn't correct for a rally car motif - look at the rally car interior in the pics above. Maybe not a GTV, but pretty damn close. 

[Fritter]

Ok, maybe leave the Empi wheel.  Let me know when you switch out the Deano shifter so I can buy it.  That doesnt fit the motif at all in my opinion. 

[John P]

Rally Beetle, Molyslip SAM 400, South Africa 1970



From the Samba...

"The rally Beetle of Ian Miller & John Buttress at the finish of the 1970 Molyslip SAM 400 Rally, Transvaal South Africa. The first stage was from Pretoria to Groblersdal, the second from Groblersdal to Nylstroom, and the last from Nylstroom back to Pretoria. The TZ registration plate was for the town of Stilfontein."

Notice the cable running from the interior through the mirror hole down to the hub of the left front wheel. This was to ensure accurate speed/distance measurements. Not surprisingly, these were very vulnerable and frequently ripped off.

Note also the auxiliary lights, horns and Helphos spotlight in the lower left side of the windshield. The front and rear fender have been cut (presumably cut away for tire clearance), mudflaps added to the front of the front fender, and the decklid offset at the top. You didn't see many decklids offset at the top with offroad rallies. While it aided in cooling, it also sucked in A LOT of dirt, which was damaging to the engine.

[Dave Conklin (Cornpanzers)]

I cant wait til you chop your fenders like that!

[Chuck Fryer]

I wanna see the horns mounted on the quarter panel!

[John P]

I think if I tried to operate 3 horns like that my car would catch on fire.

[elmo]

Yes, and drill a hole in your door for the speedo cable and holes in the bumper for extra lights!

[martin]

Hah yeah, and no side mirror?

[John P]

Well, it finally happened last night while driving my '67 to my soccer game. A '30s-something guy pulled up next to me, hung his head out the window, and yelled at the top of his lungs, "HERBIE!" I smiled and waved, but he wouldn't stop, driving beside me continually yelling "HERBIE!" I smiled and nodded, but he wouldn't stop.

It was overwhelming after awhile, until he thankfully turned at a traffic light, his screams continuing as he turned the corner, creating a weird doppler-effect in the thickening fog. What the hell did he want? How do I make him stop? I've been driving these cars regularly for over 25 years and never had that happen before. He sees an off-white '60s-era Beetle with gumballs on the door and goes nuts. Not for shrinking violets.

In any event, some more projects to start after the Man in the Brown Suit visited. In the attached pic you will see a pair of 6 volt LED running/brake light bulbs. You will also see 6 volt Porsche 356A fog light relays. I plan to use them on my fog lights, in order to take the load off of the NOS Hella fog light switch. I also plan to use them for my headlights in order to brighten the weak, 6 volt beam.

Now I just need to find a schematic to find out what each of the 4-5 male terminals (per relay) are for so I can wire them in...

J