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Author Topic: Crank pulley bolt comes loose?  (Read 2152 times)
roscoesvw
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« on: January 09, 2011, 07:58:29 am »

Hey everybody I have a question. Huh
I have a stroker motor and I cant keep the crank pulley bolt tight. I tighten it up and it backs off resulting in a rattling sound in the engine.
The pulley is a stock size Berg Achiever with the extra long bolt.I know that the pulley usually has to be pressed on somewhat, but this one when its on all the way without the bolt tight it wiggles side to side. So Im thinkin it is rattling the bolt loose. What do you think? Its a pain in the a** as I can make a pass and it comes loose, and evens comes loose when you cruise the car around. I never had the problem with any other pulley.
Any ideas? Thanks guys!!!
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Donny B.
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« Reply #1 on: January 09, 2011, 08:44:00 am »

Are you using the Berg pulley bolt with the double bellville washers?  If so then the pulley has probably worn to the point that the ID is too large.  You didn't say what kind of crank you are using.  I pretty much ruined an equalizer pulley when it came loose.  I am running an acheiver pulley with the Berg bolt and I torque it to about 100 ft. lbs.  I doesn't come loose.  Alistair at the Bergs said that they can probably fix my equalizer pulley, but I haven't sent it to them yet.  When properly installed they don't come loose.  Like an idiot I forgot to torque my equalizer until after the engine was in the car and I did not get it tight enough.
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Donny B.
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« Reply #2 on: January 09, 2011, 11:52:41 am »

If the pulley wiggles when installed, then it is junk. That, or your crankshaft is worn down. Either way, you have an issue that needs fixed.
If you continue to run this way, you will for sure tear up the crankshaft.

#1 reason why I don't like those heavy pulleys. When they come loose, they eat things up.
Aluminum pulleys, won't tear up the crankshaft... as much...
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roscoesvw
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« Reply #3 on: January 09, 2011, 01:11:03 pm »

I am running a 78mm crank, counterweighted. I am using the same style Berg bolt, but it is from Scat.
I have aslo noticed too that the actual key way slot on the pulley is larger than the the key way on the crank.
I think the pulley is junk.
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Bruce Tweddle
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« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2011, 02:27:11 pm »

This problem has nothing to do with the pulley or it's bolt.  The pulley is just the messenger to the real problem.
Your flywheel is LOOSE and it's falling off.
Pull the engine and fix it now before you destroy your crank.
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roscoesvw
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« Reply #5 on: January 09, 2011, 03:17:43 pm »

I thought of that too.
Ran the car, pulled the motor, flywheel side is fine. Put back together, ran at the track, pulley loose again, flywheel tight?
Scratchin my head..........
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Bruce Tweddle
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« Reply #6 on: January 09, 2011, 07:51:58 pm »

Did you take the flywheel off, or just check the bolt?
Wedgemate?
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Terry Hoogstins
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« Reply #7 on: January 09, 2011, 09:01:38 pm »

Bruce is right , find the cause of the vibration before the motor blows up . A drag car from up here had the pulley fall off and I told him that loctite wasn't going to fix the problem , several passes later the rods exited the motor
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Jason Foster
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« Reply #8 on: January 09, 2011, 09:16:02 pm »

  Bruce is right your flywheel is loose.  pull the motor and pull the flywheel off and check things out.
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roscoesvw
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« Reply #9 on: January 09, 2011, 11:06:18 pm »

So you think there is a vibration? Out of balance? The flywheel bolt is torqued to 200 plus pounds. So is the general concensus that it has an internal problem?
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Donny B.
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« Reply #10 on: January 09, 2011, 11:34:56 pm »

If the pulley is not tight going on then that is the problem.  I ruined my pulley by trying to clean up the ID that was galled a little.  It was then a loose fit.  Root cause!  If the pulley is a tight fit to the crank and properly torqued then then it won't come loose even if the flywheel is loose.  I know this for a fact!  Been there done that!  Check the ID of the pulley...
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Donny B.
volksguy
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« Reply #11 on: January 10, 2011, 01:17:12 am »

I had the same pulley issue before, and as Bruce said, my flywheel was loose.
Nowadays all i use for glandnuts are BERG or Scat, and always torque to 700ft lbs, never had any issues since, not even on my non wedgmated turbo engines.
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Bruce Tweddle
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« Reply #12 on: January 10, 2011, 04:07:31 am »

  The flywheel bolt is torqued to 200 plus pounds.
This is the problem.  For the flywheel bolt, 200ftlbs is called snug.  You need it TIGHT!  I torque my stock bolt to 400ftlbs.
You need to take your flywheel off for a look.  I bet the pins are wobbled out a bit.  You will also see some fretting between the end of the crank and the flywheel.

All the pulleys I use get sanded on the ID to make them a slip fit.  I've never had the pulley bolt come loose.  Although I only use lightweight aluminum or  stock pulleys, never the Berg heavyweight pulley.
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roscoesvw
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« Reply #13 on: January 10, 2011, 12:31:41 pm »

Gonna pull motor out this week and check flywheel again Embarrassed Embarrassed
Hey Eddie this is Russell, can I bring the long block by your shop so we can check out flywheel torque?
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volksguy
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« Reply #14 on: January 12, 2011, 11:30:37 pm »

I closed my shop.
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roscoesvw
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« Reply #15 on: January 13, 2011, 12:01:00 am »

Bummer.
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chuck
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« Reply #16 on: January 13, 2011, 09:42:18 am »

The heavy pulley needs to stay in 1987 where it was concieved. It is up there with the plastick pushrod tubes and plastic dual carb linkage.
The woodruff Key/big bolt is designed to hold a stock pulley not something that weighs 10 times what a stock pulley weighs.
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Dominick Luppino
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« Reply #17 on: January 13, 2011, 11:14:49 am »

The heavy pulley needs to stay in 1987 where it was concieved. It is up there with the plastick pushrod tubes and plastic dual carb linkage.
The woodruff Key/big bolt is designed to hold a stock pulley not something that weighs 10 times what a stock pulley weighs.


I agree!!
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roscoesvw
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« Reply #18 on: January 13, 2011, 11:46:33 am »

OK, now im confused? Huh Should I yank the motor and check the flywheel, or should I simply swap the pulley? Undecided
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Dominick Luppino
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« Reply #19 on: January 13, 2011, 12:05:11 pm »

OK, now im confused? Huh Should I yank the motor and check the flywheel, or should I simply swap the pulley? Undecided


I had my pulley bolt come off, I had a Berg weighted pulley and it destroyed the key, all I did was replace the pulley and the key, this was over a year ago, but if it will make you feel better check and make sure the gland nut is tight...
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roscoesvw
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« Reply #20 on: January 13, 2011, 12:21:14 pm »

Ive pulled it out more than once, and the gland nut was tight.
Im going to swap the pulley and run it.
Thanks!!
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S/P4884
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« Reply #21 on: January 13, 2011, 07:53:52 pm »

 If your gland nut is tightened to 200 ft. lbs. it's not tight enough!! Take it off, clean the threads, check the dowels, and reinstall it with red loctite to at least 350 - 400. The nut could be "tight"and it still can be egg shaping the dowel holes.
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martin
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« Reply #22 on: January 13, 2011, 10:37:00 pm »

This is what happened to a Snap-On torque wrench tightening mine - enough.
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cookers v-dubs
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« Reply #23 on: January 13, 2011, 10:59:11 pm »

Berg weighted pully= junk..dont use it!!!
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« Reply #24 on: January 14, 2011, 01:08:39 am »

I use the CB 5lb pulley with no problems for maybe 10 yrs now. But anyway I would say that the pulley bolt is too long so get a shorter one and torque it down tight or maybe not.
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Kehau
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« Reply #25 on: January 14, 2011, 01:08:53 am »

If your gland nut is tightened to 200 ft. lbs. it's not tight enough!! Take it off, clean the threads, check the dowels, and reinstall it with red loctite to at least 350 - 400. The nut could be "tight"and it still can be egg shaping the dowel holes.

  I agree with this statement.  I also agree with not using a weighted pulley.

  I suggest you check things out and get a proper torque on your gland nut.
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Bruce Tweddle
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« Reply #26 on: January 14, 2011, 04:19:54 am »

OK, now im confused? Huh Should I yank the motor and check the flywheel, or should I simply swap the pulley?
You MUST remove the flywheel to check for damage.  The pulley coming loose was a result of your loose flywheel, not the heavy pulley.  There are plenty of guys with heavy Berg pulleys that aren't coming loose all the time like yours.
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Dominick Luppino
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« Reply #27 on: January 14, 2011, 10:14:58 am »

You MUST remove the flywheel to check for damage.  The pulley coming loose was a result of your loose flywheel, not the heavy pulley.  There are plenty of guys with heavy Berg pulleys that aren't coming loose all the time like yours.


Mine did and the Flywheel was tight, that POS pulley came loose on me twice, got rid of it and no more problems...
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martin
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« Reply #28 on: January 14, 2011, 10:50:42 am »

My Berg pulley was on so %^$#*&@#$%$ tight that it needed to be heated up so hot it got scorched, and still took hours of careful pulling to remove.
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roscoesvw
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« Reply #29 on: February 06, 2011, 02:26:03 pm »

Well everybody here is the scoop.
Pulled motor out flywheel torque was checked and retorqued it wasnt loose.
Turns out that I bought a longer bolt to use with the Berg pulley, and the bolt was for the serpintine set up. So guess what? It was bottoming out in the crank.
Bought the correct style longer bolt, pulley stays tight, no problem!!!!
THanks evrybody for your input Grin Grin
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