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cal 67
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« on: December 07, 2011, 01:44:34 am » |
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Hi everyone! I work in aerospace and we chem film (also called passivation) almost every piece of aluminum that goes into the field. The process gives the aluminum a protective layer that resists corrosion. I'm rebuilding a set of IDFs right now and I was thinking about giving them a dip before putting them together. The only thing they require is a GOOD cleaning before and after the process.
Does anyone see any negative affects with this?
Also, the film will not change the dimensions of anything like the passages of the carbs. Even with the finest of common measuring devices, a difference in diameter could not be detected.
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« Last Edit: December 07, 2011, 01:46:16 am by cal 67 »
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Bruce Tweddle
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« Reply #1 on: December 08, 2011, 03:21:05 am » |
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How will it affect the steel ball bearings? Throttle shafts? Or will you take all that stuff out?
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cal 67
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« Reply #2 on: December 08, 2011, 03:29:52 pm » |
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The bearings and shafts are already out. It's the bare aluminum casting aside from the brass inserts. I'm dipping them in MEK (old fashioned carb dip) next week and then cleaning them with Alcohol and this soap we use to prep for passivation.
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cal 67
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« Reply #3 on: December 08, 2011, 03:31:34 pm » |
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HBRag
Newbie
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Posts: 14
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« Reply #4 on: December 08, 2011, 03:39:02 pm » |
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I have used Alodine 1001 on the bare castings, after ultrasonic cleaning. It has worked well for me on the half dozen sets, I did it to. It does dull the finish a bit, but the appearance is stable.
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« Last Edit: December 09, 2011, 01:05:28 pm by HBRag »
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cal 67
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« Reply #5 on: December 10, 2011, 03:17:59 am » |
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I'm going to Google that. Our Chem Film will leave a light golden glossy sheen over thae carbs. Kinda like anodizing.
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67VDUBYA
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« Reply #6 on: January 17, 2012, 11:22:01 pm » |
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Is chem film the new safer alternative to Alodine? I work in aviation machining/sheetmetal and we use Alodine but were told next time we have to change the tanks we have to use something new and supposedly safer. I wouldn't want my carbs goldish colored but keeping them crud free would. E nice
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cal 67
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« Reply #7 on: January 19, 2012, 01:44:04 am » |
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Oh, hey. I checked Alodining. I don't know if you meant safer for the environment or the user. It's not hazardous or anything. If it came in contact with my skin, nothing would happen. I learned that they dye the etching compound to tell if it has completely coated the part. There is a non-dyed one that requires special tools to check it. /by the way, my carbs will have a goldish tint if I leave them in for 10 minutes or so. I'll probably only leave them for half that time. The coloring wont be as noticeable.
I've just cleaned them for the third time to get them ready. I used a plastic brush and 90% alcohol. I have MEK but I don't know how long I can leave them in. Does anyone know how long I could safely leave my carbs in without damaging them?
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67VDUBYA
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« Reply #8 on: January 19, 2012, 02:00:44 am » |
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Alodine is super cancerous. But so is everything... I know with Alodine we dunk our parts for 1 min and they'll have a slight gold tint. Also diff grades of alum take the chemical more...more pourous maybe? if the stuff you dip your carbs in is the same or similar to Alodine I wouldn't do much more than a minute then rinse em with water good that's supposed to stop the corrosion. alodining actually corrodes the alum. And controls from more corrosion... Fighting fire with fire kinda. So if you dunk em too long you could risk damage.
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John P
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« Reply #9 on: January 19, 2012, 11:24:05 am » |
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Interesting. Could you use these coatings on magnesium? If so, I wonder how close it would come to the factory yellow-ish coating that came on the case?
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'67 Cal-Look Bug
Cornpanzer's
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67VDUBYA
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« Reply #10 on: January 19, 2012, 12:14:38 pm » |
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hmm i dunno i i had a piece id try it
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cal 67
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« Reply #11 on: January 20, 2012, 12:31:04 am » |
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67DUBYA, Chemfilm is an etching compound. It does not corrode the part at all like you say Alodining does. It does need to be rinsed in water afterwards to stop it from etching further. If left in, the part turns dark gray. One minute would not be enough. It needs 5 to 10 minutes. We coat all of our military r&d parts in Chemfilm and that how long I spend babysitting the parts.
John P, I believe Mag will etch the same as Aluminum. I was thinking it would be really great for cases actually. I've seen some old blocks with a lot of corrosion at the bottom edges and around the sled tin threads. I don't think it will look like that factory gold. The parts kinda look as if they've been zinc plated.
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67VDUBYA
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« Reply #12 on: January 20, 2012, 12:57:47 am » |
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ok cool sounds like good stuff. x2 on the case.
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Ohio Tom (DdK)
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« Reply #13 on: January 20, 2012, 08:49:33 pm » |
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I'm not sure what carb bodies are made of.
I have heard they are made of "pot metal" but I have no idea what that is??
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Ohio Tom Simpson. Home of the Killa' Bee.
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cal 67
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« Reply #14 on: January 20, 2012, 11:24:55 pm » |
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Most carburetors were pot metal I believe. In the VW industry for the most part, were all aluminum. Aluminum carburetors were considered high end carbs.
I've coated one carb. I'll upload and send in a minute.
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cal 67
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« Reply #15 on: January 20, 2012, 11:53:04 pm » |
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Bummer. I wanted to show the sheen that developed. I couldn't capture it but it looks significantly shinier than a regular one. Maybe in the sunlight tomorrow. Other than the passage plugs, the carb didn't turn gold. I only left it in for 7 minutes.
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Damurz
Newbie
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Posts: 6
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« Reply #16 on: January 27, 2012, 12:35:55 am » |
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How about using something like Gibbs penetrant coating. Supposed to work awesome....
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62 vert
68 Baja
Deeeeeep South Louisiana
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