case stud question 10 mm

[bugus67]

I'm rebuilding a 1641 cc for a daily driver.  I took my case to a machine shop to have some case savers put in.  it took me 3 months to get it back.  upon inspection I noticed the machine shop put a case saver at the number 3 cylinder in the top left threaded hole for the stud.  if you'll recall this is where the longer stud attaches to the case half, the threads are deeper inside the case, unlike the others flush with the cylinder opening.
 
my question is, could I just use a shorter stud here with the case saver in place?  or did the factory for some reason sink this stud into the case further than the others?   was it for strength due to the number 3 cylinder running hotter than the others?  since this is just a daily driver and a 1600 cc motor, I'm thinking of just using a stud with the proper length for me to bolt the head on.  thoughts???

[Ohio Tom (DdK)]

What kind of case is it?
Letter code?
Replacement case?

[pupjoint]

i am going to add case savers to my F code case also and this info will be useful for me.

however i am thinking of using 8mm studs since i have plenty lying around , of course 8mm case savers also

[Ohio Tom (DdK)]

VW sank that particual stud deeper due to the fact that the case was cast thin in this section and would crack (and leak oil out hte flywheel area).
VW solved the problem by sinking the stud deeper.
On later cases, ( i beleive) they strengthend the case in this area kind of making the need for a deep stud mute.
Since every stud kit sold today uses the Deep #3, that is the standard even thou the problem was more or less solved.

You should be OK running a shallow #3 as long as the case is a newer model.

[John P]

i am thinking of using 8mm studs since i have plenty lying around , of course 8mm case savers also

I prefer 8 mm studs for normally aspirated street engines (no experience with turbo engines). They seem to hold their torque much better than the 10 mm, in my  experience. My theory is that they match the expansion rate of the engine better than a 10 mm, holding their torque better. But again, this is a theory.

Regardless of the theory, I prefer them more over the 10s on the street. I've never had a problem with them, or a need to re-torque them, whether it's a stock 1300 running 7.3:1 or a 2110 running 9:1.

My 1.5 cents.

JP