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February 12, 2012, 08:49:49 pm
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Author Topic: Billet crank in Australia  (Read 101953 times)
dangerous
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« Reply #35 on: January 10, 2007, 06:18:08 pm »

Have a talk with Don Pauter.
Some years ago he was struggling to keep up with demand.
May not be the case any more, but give him a buzz, nice fellow.
Now he now only makes them for his Big Block as I understand.
He retails them for US$2800 I heard. This is why I made my own.
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« Reply #36 on: January 10, 2007, 06:56:47 pm »

Will give him a call tomorrow.  Thanks for the thought.

If there is anyone else out there who wants a billet crank we can do it for less than this...

Have a talk with Don Pauter.
Some years ago he was struggling to keep up with demand.
May not be the case any more, but give him a buzz, nice fellow.
Now he now only makes them for his Big Block as I understand.
He retails them for US$2800 I heard. This is why I made my own.
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Marty
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« Reply #37 on: January 10, 2007, 07:26:27 pm »

Moldex gets a little less than $2k.
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« Reply #38 on: January 11, 2007, 03:07:11 am »

I don't suppose you have a web address for them do you?  Been doing a search and can't find it.

Moldex gets a little less than $2k.
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Scott Gilbert-DdK
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« Reply #39 on: January 11, 2007, 03:37:33 am »

I don't suppose you have a web address for them do you? Been doing a search and can't find it.


Moldex is an old school shop and I'd be surprised if they owned a computer.  They still write all of their orders in a notebook.
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drgouk
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« Reply #40 on: January 11, 2007, 05:07:29 am »

I would be keen on a crank a little later on, i just need to get my current project sorted.
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« Reply #41 on: January 12, 2007, 09:59:00 pm »

For today's update, here's a shot of the barrels. 

The plan is to have these done by the end of the weekend and start getting the heads bolted up next week.

There's going to be 6 studs on each cylinder.  We want to make sure we keep it nicely sealed.   Grin
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vwmex
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« Reply #42 on: January 13, 2007, 12:52:17 am »

 Shocked Shocked Shocked  WOOOOooowww!!!   fantastic, I can't wait to see how much HP you can make with this...   Grin
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« Reply #43 on: January 13, 2007, 03:15:37 am »

For today's update, here's a shot of the barrels.

The plan is to have these done by the end of the weekend and start getting the heads bolted up next week.

There's going to be 6 studs on each cylinder. We want to make sure we keep it nicely sealed. Grin

Do you want 30 or so sets of siamesed 101 bore cyls?
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« Reply #44 on: January 13, 2007, 03:21:11 am »



Do you want 30 or so sets of siamesed 101 bore cyls?
I'll take a few.
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« Reply #45 on: January 13, 2007, 03:27:57 am »

They're finned but still need the sleeves.

(ARPM)
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« Reply #46 on: January 13, 2007, 02:17:46 pm »

For today's update, here's a shot of the barrels.

Billit aluminum cylinders with a later installed ductul iron sleves ?
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« Reply #47 on: January 13, 2007, 04:00:28 pm »

For today's update, here's a shot of the barrels.

The plan is to have these done by the end of the weekend and start getting the heads bolted up next week.

There's going to be 6 studs on each cylinder. We want to make sure we keep it nicely sealed. Grin

I have an idea -
If you counter bore the area where the holes for the studs are in the cylinders (lets say 1" deep with a diameter of the required washer and nut), you can bolt the cylinder modules directly to the block. Then you can sink short studs into the cylinder modules and bolt the heads to them (different bolt pattern obviously).
I think that this would be a VERY stout setup.
This would allow the use of MUCH shorter fasteners that would be less prone to stretch
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Marty

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Donny B.
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« Reply #48 on: January 13, 2007, 04:18:50 pm »

Quote
I have an idea -
If you counter bore the area where the holes for the studs are in the cylinders (lets say 1" deep with a diameter of the required washer and nut), you can bolt the cylinder modules directly to the block. Then you can sink short studs into the cylinder modules and bolt the heads to them (different bolt pattern obviously).
I think that this would be a VERY stout setup.
This would allow the use of MUCH shorter fasteners that would be less prone to stretch

That's old motorcycle style. My old motocrossers were like that.  The cylinders wouldn't distort from being constrained by the cylinder studs.  It worked well on the dirt bikes.
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« Reply #49 on: January 13, 2007, 07:32:21 pm »

Think Harley.  Wink
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Greg G
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« Reply #50 on: January 13, 2007, 07:56:17 pm »

Think Harley. Wink

Think Scat sprint car motor.
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It runs hard and is a blast to drive!
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« Reply #51 on: January 14, 2007, 12:57:52 am »

Think  CZ and Honda CR motocross....
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« Reply #52 on: January 18, 2007, 09:18:30 pm »

We've got the head back from casting.  Nothing to show there just yet.  Hope to have some machining done on this over the weekend.

This is one of those projects that is done in our "spare" time.  We would really like to get this project done a whole lot sooner, so anyone out there has any thought on where we can get funding so that we can work on this full time.  Any ideas would be gratefully recieved.  We don't want this turning into a lifetime project and never getting finished or realising its full potential.
  Undecided
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« Reply #53 on: January 19, 2007, 12:25:45 pm »

I have an idea -
If you counter bore the area where the holes for the studs are in the cylinders (lets say 1" deep with a diameter of the required washer and nut), you can bolt the cylinder modules directly to the block. Then you can sink short studs into the cylinder modules and bolt the heads to them (different bolt pattern obviously).
I think that this would be a VERY stout setup.
This would allow the use of MUCH shorter fasteners that would be less prone to stretch

It is too bad the case is machined already. This idea could have been incorporated into the design. The cylinders could have had a flange where it bolts to the case.

Never the less, an incredible project that is being taken on. Kudos
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« Reply #54 on: January 19, 2007, 02:08:05 pm »

The barrels have a flange 3/4 of inch thick around the lower face and  are held onto the block by 8 studs .The heads have
have 6 studs around each hole to seal it up tight .With the bore centers and stud patten we have 4.6" plus pistons could be run .Got to go and start cutting on the heads as the cnc mill has finished it"s warm up cycle plus JT showen up to kick into gear

greg
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« Reply #55 on: January 19, 2007, 03:56:32 pm »

4.6 bore!?

I think that is awesome!(pass the tissues)
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« Reply #56 on: January 22, 2007, 03:10:48 am »

hi marty thanks for the suggestions keep them coming .jt 


I have an idea -
If you counter bore the area where the holes for the studs are in the cylinders (lets say 1" deep with a diameter of the required washer and nut), you can bolt the cylinder modules directly to the block. Then you can sink short studs into the cylinder modules and bolt the heads to them (different bolt pattern obviously).
I think that this would be a VERY stout setup.
This would allow the use of MUCH shorter fasteners that would be less prone to stretch
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midget jt
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« Reply #57 on: January 22, 2007, 03:30:42 am »

It's like they say--if it was easy, everybody would do it!!
Take it from someone who knows. I'm with BRE in the US. It took us many years of refinement to make a big motor work. We are now running a full 90% load of blown NITRO and not seeing any bearing problems. We believe we are making hp in the 3000 range.We can do it with just 4 mains, imagine what you could throw at 5
hi fine 53 this is jt the other half of the midget motor project . in the bre motor do you run the main bearings with the joints in the horizontal plane or vertical .thanks jt
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« Reply #58 on: January 22, 2007, 06:35:28 am »


hi fine 53 this is jt the other half of the midget motor project . in the bre motor do you run the main bearings with the joints in the horizontal plane or vertical .thanks jt

The bearings in a BRE block run the joint vertical.
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« Reply #59 on: January 23, 2007, 10:54:01 pm »

Here's what we have on the heads so far. 
As I said earlier "not much to show just yet". 

More to come...
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Marty
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« Reply #60 on: January 23, 2007, 11:54:28 pm »

Now THAT is a casting!
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Marty

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« Reply #61 on: January 26, 2007, 02:27:08 am »

hi you guys jt here we are looking for some 7075 T6 alloy plate .5 pieces 5x6x1 can anybody help its hard to get hold of in little newzealand .look foreword to your replies .thanks jt
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« Reply #62 on: January 26, 2007, 02:29:20 am »

its saturday tomorow greg and i will be working on the heads .more picks soon .thanks jt
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« Reply #63 on: January 26, 2007, 06:01:25 pm »

Hey JT,
Try 'Shape Aluminium' here on thre Gold Coast.
They can post you what you need and you will get it in a couple of days.

Not sure of your international dial number, but in Australia,

07 55 342307
&
07 55 343207
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« Reply #64 on: January 26, 2007, 11:07:01 pm »

hey dave thanks for that i will give them a try .jt
Hey JT,
Try 'Shape Aluminium' here on thre Gold Coast.
They can post you what you need and you will get it in a couple of days.

Not sure of your international dial number, but in Australia,

07 55 342307
&
07 55 343207
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« Reply #65 on: January 27, 2007, 08:25:22 pm »

Here's just a little bit more to keep things rolling...    Grin
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midget jt
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« Reply #66 on: January 31, 2007, 02:16:35 am »

hey dave i tried shape allum today for the 7075 T6 and no joy there ,we are looking for 5x 5x6x1 plate if anybody can help get hold of me .thanks jt
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« Reply #67 on: January 31, 2007, 02:33:34 am »

7075 T6 looking for 5x 5x6x1 plate if anybody can help get hold of me .thanks jt

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/alumsheet_7075t6.php
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« Reply #68 on: February 01, 2007, 02:13:20 am »

thanks bob but they only supply thin material and we need 1'' thick. thanks jt
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« Reply #69 on: February 01, 2007, 05:08:22 am »

Jt, have you tried or do you know anyone at buckley systems in Auckland, they might know where you can get it or may have it. They are speedway enthusisits.
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