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May 17, 2012, 03:50:46 am
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Author Topic: A better breather cap...  (Read 2995 times)
scott s
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« on: September 16, 2006, 04:55:39 pm »

 I'm running one of the inexpensive chrome "Porsche" style oil filler/breather towers on my '63. I have both valve covers vented to it. Since I have IDA's and no filters, I put on a V-8 style "push-on" breather cap. (See pics below) I've never been real happy with it. It fits sorta loose and lets a mist of oil out around the cap and sometimes onto the fan shroud behind it. Usually, it does this if I take a long highway trip at extended RPM's or if I really beat on it around town. (Cont. below...)
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scott s
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« Reply #1 on: September 16, 2006, 05:01:41 pm »

 I picked up a K&N style breather element and had the local shop braze on a piece of tubing to a stock filler cap. I also put in a new cork gasket. It looks great, BUT.....
 I'm not sure the hole in the cap is large enough and when the guy brazed the tubing on I think the heat must have affected the temper of the tabs that lock the cap down. Now they're very soft and bend easily. The cap won't stay locked down on the breather tower. I actully found it sitting on top of the case one time! I was lucky it didn't fall into the fan belt and get tossed around the engine compartment.

 I tried running a stock cap with no outlet at all and that was a disaster. I filled the engine bay up with oil and it sprayed out all over the rear fenders. I had to degrease the engine top to bottom and wash the car after that short (~2 mile) trip.
 
« Last Edit: September 16, 2006, 05:05:41 pm by scott s » Logged

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scott s
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« Reply #2 on: September 16, 2006, 05:04:38 pm »

 Does anyone have an idea how to make a cap to fit the breather I have so I can attach some type of open element breather/filter to it? 
 I'm about "This" close to ordering a Berg filler/breather. I'd love to figure out a way to make this one work. Actually, it works OK as it is, but I'm just not happy with the fit of that V-8 style breather.
 OK, all you fabrication gurus out there...help me out!
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Mike Lawless
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« Reply #3 on: September 16, 2006, 05:40:11 pm »

Perhaps you can epoxy a metal disc onto the breather canister with the appropriate hole size for the breather to push into. I'd say weld or braze one in, but that would disrupt the chrome. JB Weld was made for an application such as this. What would be perfect would be to have a disc made that had a step turned into it that would allow it to fit down into the opening, with the outer edge sitting on top. 1 1/4" hole in the middle, push in the element
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scott s
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« Reply #4 on: September 16, 2006, 06:01:35 pm »

The only problem with that, if I understand you correctly, is that I'd have to fill the engine through a 1/4" hole during oil changes....or am I not picking up what you're laying down?
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MN Mike
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« Reply #5 on: September 16, 2006, 07:21:49 pm »

 I have one of those now, it works as good as my Berg one that I had a while back.  I had the old style Berg one that had the push in breather off a mid sixties GM, and it would work loose and fall down by the pulley and tear off my degree ring.  Andy at Bergs sent me a fix kit for it, proving how cool they are over there, but I still didn't like it so I went back to my CB breather tower which works great, but I didn't like the way it looked, so I decided to try one of these things, they're only 50bucks right?  Well guess what, they are sealed, don't really let your engine breath, do they.  So then you are stuck with a non-functioning shelf trinket, or you make it work.  I put a hole in the top, in front of the cap, and tapped it for a pipe thread adaptor, and put a KN mini breather in it.  I also removed the breather inlet nipples and screwd some 3/8" brass 45deg ells from the hardware stoe in it, so they would clear a CB hex-linkage.  I suppose another good way to vent it is to run a hose out of it to a breather on your firewall, but then you have some redundancy built in so who knows....I eventually took the mini breather and nipple off, cuz I thought it looked weird, then I cut some breather foam to fit inside and it just vents out the hole, It works ok, but I would be lying if I said that it was perfect, I wipe up a bit of oil mist when I beat the crap out of it, sustained high rpm burnouts, doing donuts, or the whole day at the track, etc.  It stays clean on the highway with 4000pm for an hour, good luck getting it sorted, hope I gave you some ideas...
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MN Mike
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« Reply #6 on: September 16, 2006, 07:40:12 pm »

I got off my tired worked on Saturday butt and clicked one for you....
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so67vw
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« Reply #7 on: September 16, 2006, 08:11:12 pm »

I'll have mine out of the trailer next week so I can send you a Pic. of what I did....
I also use a little baffle material inside the top of the tower to catch the oil before it blows into the K&N filter.... It keeps the filter from filling up with oil....
« Last Edit: September 16, 2006, 08:15:56 pm by so67vw » Logged

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scott s
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« Reply #8 on: September 16, 2006, 08:35:44 pm »

 The foam idea may work. Maybe if I stuffed it with foam and used the cap I have now it would stop the mist from coming out but still breath.
 Mike, is yours full of foam at the top or just under the hole you drilled? I guess I could remove the foam to fill it with oil...
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Mike Lawless
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« Reply #9 on: September 16, 2006, 09:28:31 pm »

Not 1/4" Scott

One and a Quarter inch
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White Knuckle Ride
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scott s
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« Reply #10 on: September 16, 2006, 09:33:57 pm »

 Ah, I misread your post earlier.
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bendig
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« Reply #11 on: September 16, 2006, 09:54:57 pm »

I run one of the Chinese knockoffs also. A lot of work plus chrome plating for under 50 bucks! I think I spent more stripping the chrome off and powdercoating it than the breather itself. I brazed steel 'AN' fittings to the canister and ran a breather hose out similiar to stock.
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MN Mike
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« Reply #12 on: September 17, 2006, 12:38:17 am »

I have foam under the front half of the top chamber, and I pull the foam out when I add oil, it seems to get a bit too soaked if I don't, and then needs to be wiped up when I run the engine.  Anyone know of a twist and lock cap that has a built in breater and fits a stock oil fill/breather?  that would be ideal...
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scott s
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« Reply #13 on: September 17, 2006, 08:09:20 am »

 That's exactly what I'm looking for, Mike. That's sorta what I tried to have fabbed up but the tab that is riveted to the bottom is just too soft. Instead of locking into the filler it bends the metal. And that was a German cap I used, too. My theory is that the heat from brazing on the tube may have softened the metal of the locking tab(?).
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MN Mike
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« Reply #14 on: September 17, 2006, 08:45:11 am »

Maybe try straightening it out and heating it back up and cool it faster to re-anneal it, and make it hard again?
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