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bugracer99
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« on: September 12, 2007, 01:04:34 am » |
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Today I brought home a 2332 engine (part of a bunch of VW parts & vehicles bought as a package deal from someone who's getting out of the hobby). The motor was built from parts bought new 3-4 years ago & assembled a few months ago. It has been run only long enough to break in the cam. My plan is to dis-assemble, check everything & re-assemble. Question is, do you see any weakness in the parts in it, what if anything would you replace while it's apart? (The list below is all the info I have on it right now) And, Oh ya, the motor is to be used in a "Drag Only" glass buggy. Aluminum case (C.B.,Bugpack, I don't know) Scat 84mm Volkstroker "Pro-Comp" nitrited 4340 forged billet crank (type1 mains, chevy rods) Scat chromoly 12.5lb. 8-dowel flywheel Scat 4340 forged H-beams (5.7" w 5/16 ARP rod bolts) C.B Performance "Eliminator" heads (ported by ?, new 44 x 38 valves, Crowler valve springs) Scat "Pro-Comp" 1.4:1 forged billet rockers Web cam "86C" (.585lift, .310duration) Dual Weber 48 IDF carbs (I plan to use my 51.5 IDA's & sell the IDF's) Bugpack streight cut cam gears Bugpack tapered Chromoly H.D. pushrods Scat H.P. lifters (what brand of lifters were giving trouble a while back?) Scat "long barrel" 94mm cylinders w/ Mahle pistons & total seal rings Comp-U-Fire ignition system (I know nothing about these?) Engine was blueprinted, balanced, manifolds were matched to the ported heads
So what do you think, any weak parts or any changes I should make while it's apart? (I'm staying N/A on this one, for now, in case anybody is thinkin' turbo or bottle!)
Thanks,
Tom V
just one more small step in my plan to beat "QuickDraw" in a match race next spring! (aint no glory unless ya aim high!)
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« Last Edit: September 12, 2007, 02:06:47 am by bugracer99 »
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Still tryin to come up with a cool signature line!
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the burnout king
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« Reply #1 on: September 12, 2007, 02:00:26 am » |
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just one more small step in my plan to beat "QuickDraw" in a match race next spring! (aint no glory unless ya aim high!)
LMAO you wont need to aim too high its only john lol....
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bugracer99
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« Reply #2 on: September 12, 2007, 02:10:12 am » |
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 just remember, you said that, NOT me!  Tom V was funny tho .............
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Still tryin to come up with a cool signature line!
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the burnout king
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« Reply #3 on: September 12, 2007, 02:11:25 am » |
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Its All Good, Ole Spirit Fingers is a good friend of mine....
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Jason Young
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« Reply #4 on: September 12, 2007, 02:21:04 am » |
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i would go with a shorter rod. 5.4/5.5 maybe. everything else seems alright.
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raceyoung.com welding-works.com geneberg.com
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ErikTheRed
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« Reply #5 on: September 12, 2007, 02:37:37 am » |
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The sum of the parts looks pretty darn good to me. When you say "Eliminator" heads, would those be "Street Eliminators" or "Competition Eliminators"? Makes a considerable difference in available horsepower. As you already know, heads are the power so the "ported by ?" is a concern.
Scat lifters have been a source for controversey for several years. Some people swear by em, some people swear they're the devil incarnate in steel. If they've already been run in with that cam (and survived) and its a drag-only motor, I say use em. Most people who experience failures report those failures after some street time. However, you plan to replace the cam with something a bit more aggressive for drag racing, give AJ's new lifters a try or even CB's lifters....so far so good.
Is the crank/fly wedgemated?
Those rods with that stroke will produce a 1.72 ratio, which works nicely. Rod length should depend alot on your cam and heads.....the more head and the bigger the cam, the more rpm your motor will turn, obviously-- in which case, a longer rod is good.
Its hard to say how "good" something is without knowing exactly what its going to be used for. If this is a S/G motor, I'd think you have yourself at least a very doable collection of parts there.
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May God forever bless these United States. Amen.
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2stroke
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« Reply #6 on: September 12, 2007, 02:54:23 am » |
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nitrous in a manx...ill take two!!!
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ugly as sin, fast as hell!
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bugracer99
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« Reply #7 on: September 12, 2007, 02:59:28 am » |
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Eric, The're worked over Street eliminators, (Been lookin' at C.B.'s ported Comp-Elimitaors tho) maybe in the spring.
I'll send out the crank & flywheel to be wedgemated.
Since the cam & lifters have run for 30-40 minutes I'm up in the air over changing them.
The rods are longer than anything I've owned before but there are so many opinnions out there (note Jason's thoughts) so I guess I might winding flipping a coin on that one.
And no, no S/G for me, I'll stick to P/E untill we win some there.
Tom V
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Still tryin to come up with a cool signature line!
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Bad Bug Two
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« Reply #8 on: September 12, 2007, 09:40:55 am » |
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As far as the rods and rod ratio, if it were me I wouldn’t change the rods just to get a different ratio. I tend to believe that rod ratios are a bit over rated. I couldn’t find the article, but I think it is on this page some where that talks about rod ratios… http://www.rehermorrison.com/techTalk/index.htmI tend to prefer a longer rod for the sole reason of less stress on parts. Also, if you take a combo that is already together and change rod length, you will affect barrel length, pushrod length, and potentially exhaust fit, carb linkage and maybe even other things? Micky’s 1584cc engine has 5.5 rods on a 69mm crank and I don’t think it is hurting his performance too bad as he has run a best of 12.39 @ 104mph! Now with that said, if I was going to fully buy into the rod ratio theory, then I would say go with a short rod for a torquey street engine and a longer rod for a revving race engine. 
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Mike Lawless
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« Reply #9 on: September 12, 2007, 11:05:48 am » |
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I like the long rods too. If the cam and lifters have already been run in and look good, I'd run 'em. If the case does NOT have a CB logo cast into it, then it's somebody elses.
If the motor is apart and since there are unknowns, I would aproach it as a new build and check everything as if it had not been assembled already. I'm not saying there's anything wrong, just assume nothing so that you can be sure you can get many trouble free runs.
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Alan Uyeno
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« Reply #10 on: September 12, 2007, 11:25:18 am » |
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Tom,
Are you gonna run high compression?? 12-15:1??? run some comp eliminators. If your gonna run pumpgas stick with street eliminators.
My kroc port/polished SE heads is probably 10cc smaller in the intake ports compared to a wedgeport CNC so you could imagine how much more port velocity I have. If you saw my intake ports you'd swear I was lying that I run consistant 11.90's with a 2332, on street gas in a NON dedicated gutted drag car. Bigger is not better or you'd see a tonne of full steel street cars running 11's with Comp eliminators on 92 or 94 pumpgas....you dont.
With an 86C you should'nt be shifting ove 7500 rpms at the track anyways so having massive ports of a CE may not make much HP over the 7500rpm shift point. CE's with big cams like the fk89 and larger will have the breathing window from that cam and the ports to support the higher rpms.
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Consistant 11 sec pumpgas streetcar = KROC heads
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bugracer99
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« Reply #11 on: September 12, 2007, 11:48:10 am » |
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My last "big" engine, a 2276, ran 13:1 compression & ran with 110 race gas. This new 2332 is also supposed to be running 13:1 (according to the previous owner) so I'll stick to race gas here too. You guys DO have me thinking a cam change may be in order as this motor won't ever see street use. So far looks like maybe bigger cam, different brand of lifters & maybe the new heads (I'm counting my pocket change & searching the couch & under my car seats for that one allready!).
Good imput, thanks
Tom V
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Still tryin to come up with a cool signature line!
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Alan Uyeno
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« Reply #12 on: September 13, 2007, 01:10:58 am » |
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fk89, big compression, weisco pistons and CNC comp eliminators and use your 51.5 IDA's. Dont push the limits of the mahle piston with high rpms. The crazy fast europeans are lovin' these Udo becker tool steel lifters. Seems like floating them does no harm. Udo says you can swap all the cams you want and reuse, reuse and reuse.   OR get a set of cheaper 28mm CB lightweights.
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Consistant 11 sec pumpgas streetcar = KROC heads
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